Camino 2013 - Day 17 - 10 December 2013

In winter time things don't always go to plan. We had wanted to walk 29km to Arcahueja to be close to Leon for a short walk the next day but as fate would have it the albergue which was to be open was closed. We slogged into Leon after 39km of hard walking through flat countryside and many kilometres of industrial and city suburbs. My left lower legs is very sore and swollen, I may have been bitten by something. We stayed in the albergue Santa Maria de Carbajal a convent. Lilli wasn't well after the walk and Kristina and I went out for a cold beer and tapas. Had a reasonable sleep.

Camino 2013 - Day 16 - 9 December 2013

Today there will be even less walkers because the weekend walking Spaniards will be back at work. Morning temp -5C but clear skies and no wind. The day was much like yesterday but much longer covering 31 Km. All are suffering from sore feet. A coffee stop in Moratinos and again in Sahagun. We wanted to see Sahagun but being Monday lunchtime and followed by siesta everything was closed till 16:00. Our final destination is Burgo el Rainero in an old albergue run by an artist. 

Now I will tell you about a day in the life of a winter pilgrim. Out of bed at 07:00 after a night of snoring, farting and door banging in a smelly room. Rush for the toilet before all the paper is gone, then quick face wash with cold water and comb hair. In bedroom start dressing in the dark until the lights come on, put smelly sleeping bag away and pack things in backpack for an early start. No breakfast available so walk for 5 or 10km to first town with bar for coffee and toast. 

Weather can be bitterly cold with heavy frost and fog or raining so put on poncho and trudge out of town, looking for fading yellow arrows to point the way. Every town in Spain has a steep hill so with protesting legs and heavy pack trudge up steep slope and ask yourself why you are doing this. At top of hill take photo of town with freezing fingers in gloves, keep walking and watch as the rising sun starts to burn the frost of vegetation. Not much activity other then one or two other pilgrims and local farm dog who chases you and barks. The hours slip away and your mind mulls over family and friends, the past and future, and the spiritual side of life. A town appears and you search for the local bar to warm up and get another pilgrims stamp in you pilgrims passport; everything is shut!! 

The path wanders through fields and vineyards and you curse the clinging deep red mud which slows you down, along the way you surreptitiously pick a bunch of grapes to quell the hunger, finally by mid afternoon you find a place for lunch, a thick roll with jamon, cheese and tomato. 20 minutes later back on the road and put gortex jacket back on to cut out the icy cold wind. Walking in winter many small villages are ghost towns and pilgrim accommodation, bars and supermarkets are shut. The end is in sight after a hard 30km walk, an albergue but is it open, my feet are killing me? It is, but the rooms are not heated, there are no clothes washing facilities and food has to be bought from the tiny supermarket; tonight it's sardines on bread, some cheese, a packet of chips and beer. As soon as you get to the albergue look for the best bed near a heater, window or power point and unpack smelly sleeping bag, then to the toilet to get the last paper followed by a shower with luke warm water, outside the temp is 3C. 

After dinner wash socks and hope they dry by morning, then write diary and go to bed. Ah, the joy of my own smelly but homely sleeping bag. I put my wallet and passport in the sleeping bag and push them to the bottom with my foot. The lights are turned off and the music of the night commences again; snoring, farting and door banging. It is so good to be back in my bed; only another 489km to go!!! Why would I not want to do a pilgrimage to Santiago?

Camino 2013 - Day 15 - 8 December 2013

Sun 8 Dec 13. A magic day!! The accommodation was very comfortable with single and not bunk beds. We hit the road at 08:30, it was -6C, heavy mist but clear sky and no wind. The country side was white, every blade of grass, twig, leave and branch covered in small wind driven icicles. A photographers dream! Only by midday did the sun burn of the ice and bring some warmth. Our first stop was at midday after walking 17km on a straight country lane in rolling fields although the mist hid this from us. During the morning we only saw two other people, both pilgrims. Finally at 15:00 we arrived at Terradillos de Templarios and decided against trying to walk the other 13km due to failing light. I have stayed in this albergue previously and they put on a good evening meal and breakfast. Now only 2 days out from Leon. The days are getting noticeably shorter and colder. Feet holding up but feeling the pressure of non stop walking.

Camino 2013 - Day 14 - 7 December 2013

Breakfast of yesterday's bread, cheese and ham, then outside to a perfectly clear sky and no wind but heavy frost. My god it was cold, even with good gloves my fingers were sore from the cold. By midday the sky had a winter grey colour but mid afternoon it was perfectly clear and almost warm. First hot coffee in Poblacion albergue where the lady hospitalar gave us a big hug as we left. The next 12 km we walked alongside a small river along totally deserted country lanes until reaching Villalcazar. Here we visited the beautiful Knights Templar church and had coffee in hotel. Final destination after 20km is Carrion de Los Condes where have booked into the convent Espiritu Santo. Tomorrow we are trying for a 37km day!!!

Late update on Pyrenees! One of the pilgrims showed photos of his crossing on 29 Nov. The snow was up to knees and extreme wind. All signs covered in ice with half meter long icicles. To read directions ice had to be chiseled off. Temps minus ten degrees and crossing of 30km took 14 hours. Police send helicopter to check the three pilgrims. This story has been confirmed by other pilgrims who took lower route.

Camino 2013 - Day 13 - 6 December 2013

The day started with an exchange of small gifts between Lilli, Kristina and me for St Nicholas day. The morning was very cold with a biting bitter wind. Immediately on leaving Castrojeriz we hit a big steep climb of 12 degrees continuous over 1km with a downhill gradient of 18 degrees, an awful way to start the day. First and only stop was at Itero de la Vega for coffee. Along the way the police stopped us to check everything OK because the road is so remote. After walking 25km without seeing almost no one and living on chocolate and nuts we arrived in Fromista to find everything locked for a holiday. Dinner was a frozen pizza in the bar. The albergue was closed and was opened for us. Tonight there are 8 pilgrims. Along the way we met an Italian pilgrim whose heel blister was so bad that he had blood coming through his shoe, there are also more crosses along the route then previously.

Camino 2013 - Day 12 - 5 December 2013

On the road early in semi darkness, and although overcast and biting cold the day cleared up by mid morning. The endless Meseta of rolling treeless hills and lonely plains is empty of people and until reaching Hontanas after 11km we were alone. A friendly lady dragged us into the only open bar in town where it was coffee and tostadas (toast and jam) for breakfast. Today we walked fast and covered the 20km by 12:30 to arrive at Castrojeriz. Our route took is through the ruins of St Anton abbey. Now there are just Lilli, Kristina and me. Dinner tonight was in a very good restaurant and consisted of thick bean soup, goulash, dessert, good bottle of wine and coffee, costing $18 each. The albergue is modern and comfortable. Daily washing completed!!.

Camino 2013 - Day 11 - 4 December 2013

Time to say goodbye to Martin who has to return to Stuttgart and a number of other friends. Today I walk with the two Slovenian ladies and Naboz the Spaniard. Getting out of the Burgos suburbs takes a long time and then we are on the lonely, endless Meseta, walking under a cloudless sky and summer like weather. There are few towns here and the first that offered coffee was Tarjados after 10km. Our final destination for the day was Hornillos, an old Middle Ages pilgrim town with 40 inhabitants, the only bar closed and no shop. To get into the albergue we made a phone call and for evening meal there were frozen meals from the bar delivered. Thankfully the fire was lit or we would have frozen. Glad to go to bed at 20:00.

Camino 2013 - Day 10 - 3 December 2013

We departed albergue at 08:00 with a picnic lunch enroute to Burgos. The sky was clear and by midday we were down to shirt sleeves and wearing sun hat. The first section of walk to Atapuerca is through lovely easy walking country but this changed to steep rock covered hills which took all my energy. On top of the range we passed a cross next to the military firing range and then descended into a treeless plain with mining and industry on the outskirts of Burgos. This last 10km is just a hard walk until we crossed the Rio Arianzon and walked in parkland for the remainder until entering Burgos through old city gate. In the evening we all went to pilgrims mass in the cathedral and wandered around the brightly lit Xmas markets.

Camino 2013 - Day 9 - 2 December 2013

Today a lovely walk to Ages. The weather was clear but cold. The country side is pretty with pine and oak Forrest's enhanced by the first layers of snow which became thicker as we went to higher altitude near St Juan de Ortega. Today there were some steep tough sections which were not improved by the glassy slippery snow in places which was treacherous, if not for the walking poles I would have taken a few big tumbles. Stayed the night in a modern comfortable albergue (pilgrims hostel).

Camino 2013 - Day 8 - 1 December 2013

1DEC13

A 24km walk to Villambistia today.   Nothing special, the countryside is rolling hills producing grapes, potatoes and vegetables.   Cloudy skies with heavy black snow clouds but for all that we had good weather although cold.   Feet are tired and sore after 6 days walking covering 200km.   Tonight early to bed because tomorrow isa stinker with three hills through possible snow country at StJuan de Ortega and on to Ages.   There are fewer accommodation options available each day.

Camino 2013 - Day 7 - 30 November 2013

30NOV13

After a good night's sleep departed the albergue at 08:30 under a grey sky and mild temperatures.   2km outside Najera this changed to cold rain.   It was a bleak day.   In Azofra put on the poncho for the rest of the day.   Imagine waling with a 13kg backpack, poncho, clinging mud for 10km, a headwind with driving rain in your face and fingers, cheeks and nose frozen, well that was my day for most of 27km.   To finish it off we had a hail storm outside Granon where we are tonight.   The albergue is in part of the ancient church and for the 8 pilgrims there was a special mass and evening meal provided.   We are now all sitting around an open fire.   It has been a tough day with a beautiful ending.   The feet are tired and sore and there is still hard walking to do.

Camino 2013 - Day 6 - 29 November 2013

29NOV13

Left Logrono with a cold 3C which never warmed up during the day and a grey heavy sky threatening snow, the wind has also returned with a cutting edge.   The countryside although similar to yesterday is bleak and other than the vineyards where I took some bunches of grapes thee was little to get excited about.   We stopped for morning coffee in Navarette and a pasta lunch, the only thing on the menu, in Ventosa.   Arrived at Najera at 16:30.   Had a lovely meal of roast ribs tonight.   Feeling pretty tired after the 32km walk, the cold drains all energy and the feet are also telling me they didn't enjoy today, much of which was walking on broken stones.   Weather change to unsettled conditions coming soon.