Today there will be even less walkers because
the weekend walking Spaniards will be back at work. Morning temp -5C
but clear skies and no wind. The day was much like yesterday but much
longer covering 31 Km. All are suffering from sore feet. A coffee stop
in Moratinos and again in Sahagun. We wanted to see Sahagun but being
Monday lunchtime and followed by siesta everything was closed till 16:00. Our final destination is Burgo el Rainero in an old albergue run by an artist.
Now I will tell you about a day in the life of a winter pilgrim. Out of bed at 07:00
after a night of snoring, farting and door banging in a smelly room.
Rush for the toilet before all the paper is gone, then quick face wash
with cold water and comb hair. In bedroom start dressing in the dark
until the lights come on, put smelly sleeping bag away and pack things
in backpack for an early start. No breakfast available so walk for 5 or
10km to first town with bar for coffee and toast.
Weather can be
bitterly cold with heavy frost and fog or raining so put on poncho and
trudge out of town, looking for fading yellow arrows to point the way.
Every town in Spain has a steep hill so with protesting legs and heavy
pack trudge up steep slope and ask yourself why you are doing this. At
top of hill take photo of town with freezing fingers in gloves, keep
walking and watch as the rising sun starts to burn the frost of
vegetation. Not much activity other then one or two other pilgrims and
local farm dog who chases you and barks. The hours slip away and your
mind mulls over family and friends, the past and future, and the
spiritual side of life. A town appears and you search for the local bar
to warm up and get another pilgrims stamp in you pilgrims passport;
everything is shut!!
The path wanders through fields and vineyards and
you curse the clinging deep red mud which slows you down, along the way
you surreptitiously pick a bunch of grapes to quell the hunger, finally
by mid afternoon you find a place for lunch, a thick roll with jamon,
cheese and tomato. 20 minutes later back on the road and put gortex
jacket back on to cut out the icy cold wind. Walking in winter many
small villages are ghost towns and pilgrim accommodation, bars and
supermarkets are shut. The end is in sight after a hard 30km walk, an
albergue but is it open, my feet are killing me? It is, but the rooms
are not heated, there are no clothes washing facilities and food has to
be bought from the tiny supermarket; tonight it's sardines on bread,
some cheese, a packet of chips and beer. As soon as you get to the
albergue look for the best bed near a heater, window or power point and
unpack smelly sleeping bag, then to the toilet to get the last paper
followed by a shower with luke warm water, outside the temp is 3C.
After
dinner wash socks and hope they dry by morning, then write diary and go
to bed. Ah, the joy of my own smelly but homely sleeping bag. I put my
wallet and passport in the sleeping bag and push them to the bottom with
my foot. The lights are turned off and the music of the night commences
again; snoring, farting and door banging. It is so good to be back in
my bed; only another 489km to go!!! Why would I not want to do a
pilgrimage to Santiago?
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