Sunday 27 May 2012
6 March 2012 - Scotia Sea
Another quiet day at sea during which I continued to take it easy. The weather has been "bumpy" with a sea state of 4 - 12 meter swells and 110kph winds. I tried to walk on the upper deck towards the forecastle for some fresh air but it was almost impossible with the ship going straight into the wind. I continue to feel unwell and my kidneys are sore which make me feel nauseous. Having light meals with lots of salads and fish and have had to cut out the lovely freshly baked bread and deserts. Taking medicine to try and improve health prior to tomorrows landing at Port Stanley in the Falklands.
Monday 5 March 2012 - Scotia Sea
Stayed in bed until 07:30. Have changed eating habits to fruit, porridge and tea for breakfast because i'm starting to put on too much weight with all the choices of food which must be sampled and enjoyed. I have to start loosing some weight. My raspy annoying throat bothered me all night so after breakfast had another sleep from 10:00 to 12:00 and then a relaxed hour chatting with Dave and Kerry C before returning to bed again at 14:00, where I stayed for the remainder of the day. Taking Sudafet and fisherman's friend lozenges.
Sunday 13 May 2012
Sunday 4 March 2012 - Fortuna Bay & Stromness
Up at 05:30 today for a light breakfast in preparation for a 7:30 landing at Fortuna Bay which is a wonderful wild life location with hundreds of fur seals, some elephant seals and a King penguin rookery. I took many photos during the two hours ashore. At 09:30 we gathered back on board for a basic fresh bread and soup early lunch and then return to the island to commence the 5.5km Shackleton's walk at 11:30. The weather was perfect and the hike demanding as we scaled the steep, broken slate strewn hills. In this part of the world trees and bushes do not grown and the only vegetation are patches of grass and moss. Along the way we stopped on the peaks for photos and rest. I walked the entire way with Ruediger a retired German professor, often in deep discussion about historical aspects which affected Germany during the last century. Here's an interesting man with a tremendous knowledge and lively sense of humour. The descent was dangerous and very steep and I did hear about one of the walkers taking a bad fall on the way down. When we reached Stromness whaling station (now deserted) our leg muscles knew that they had been on a three to four hour walk in the mountains. With everybody back on board ship we weighed anchor and sailed past Leith harbour and its large and now abandoned whaling station which still appears in good condition after 50 years. At sea we sat with friends in the lounge sharing drinks and jokes. Dinner was a jolly affair. On the way to bed we checked the lost and found and discovered a large piece of dried fish in a plastic bag (lost??). Must be the Chinese...!? Who else would bring that?? Had a better sleep tonight.
Satureday 3 March 2012 - Drygalski Fjord & Grytviken
Today everybody was up early to see the beautiful scenery of the Drygalski Fjord, South Georgia, before sailing on to Grytviken for a landing at the old whaling station. Sir Ernest Shackelton is buried here as well as the graves of Thorvald Amundsen, and other sealers and whalers, and is probably one of those men that died from typhoid fever. After viewing the neatly kept little cemetery Malcolm and I walked along the foreshore amongst the numerous seals and the rusty ruins of the whaling station, past the two hulks of beached whaling ships, to the little museum and shop where Malcolm went his own way and I continued onto the beautifully restored little white church which is still in use today by members of the British base. I then doubled back along the foreshore to the track which took me up the hill to Gull Lake, perched high above Greytviken. It was a hard steep climb and after too many lazy inactive days on my holiday required extra effort on my part. At the top I met two Germans and the Hurtigruten guide Andy Wenzel who took some photos for me before heading back down to the British Base at King Edward Point. Along the way I joined the small Dutch contingent who had accepted me as one of their own. Lovely easy going people. At King Edward Point there were many good photo opportunities of elephant seals, fur seals and King penguins. The mountain scenery across the water is magnificent and no photo will do justice to it, especially as the sun slowly sank behind the clouds and mountains changing the sky to orange and purple hues. This evening after dinner I prepared for the Shackleton walk from Fortuna Bay to Stromness the next day. An early but restless and sleepless night with intermittent coughs and sore throat.
Friday 2 March 2012 - Scotia Sea
Like yesterday we are running a very relaxed routine with lectures and plenty of time for reading. The evenings when at sea are formal dinner sittings at allocated tables whereas when we are undertaking landings passengers may choose where they wish to sit. The companions at our allocated table, number 10, are all German and generally kept to themselves and did not engage us in conversation. I do find that the Australians are probably the most outgoing and gregarious bunch on the ship. This evening we prepared for tomorrows landing at Grytviken. All passengers were required to sign a statement about not bringing anything foreign matter ashore and bags had to be vacuumed again to ensure that there were no pollen spores, soil or other dirt contaminants that could conceivably pollute this lovely piece of land and wild life.
Thursday 1 March 2012 - Scotia Sea
A sleepless night because I kept sliding up and down on my bunk and an annoying phone call from the bank in the middle of the night did not helped. I was awake at 06:45 and read "Caravan" by James Mitchener for an hour before getting up and going to breakfast. Today was a quiet day at sea with numerous lectures on the wildlife of the Antarctic, exploration and geological overview. I'm starting to put on weight from all the good food and many choices which I feel obliged to sample. A very relaxing day watching the waves and reading.
Wednesday 29 February 2012 - Hope Bay & Brown Bluff
An early start at 05:30 to catch the rising sun on Iceberg Alley which is on the northern tip of the Antarctic Peninsula. Although the outside temperature is two degrees the 19 mile per hour wind chill takes the temperature down to minus seven degrees. The sea state continuous to be amazingly calm and gentle but in the end our landing on Brown Bluff was called off because of the treacherous wind conditions at the landing site. Further entry up Iceberg Alley was also impossible due to the large number of icebergs blocking our entry and the inherent danger of trying to proceed further. the ship thus continued to weave its way through the many channels and between islands but the wind conditions prevail and make it impossible to attempt any further landings. At this stage it looks as if we will not be leaving the MS Fram again until reaching the South Georgia islands. Current wind conditions have now reached 112Kph, Beaufort scale 11, with a 12.5meter swell with very large patches of foam, driven before the wind, covering much of the sea surface. The ship is fitted with stabilizers which did their job well although the number of passengers moving about the ship was noticeably smaller. The remainder of the day we sat around and relaxed, chatting and wondering if Lyn had arrived in Chile yet.
Tuesday 28 February 2012 - Frei Station & Bellinghausen/ King Island
With a change to the program there was an opportunity for a sleep in until 07:30. After a leisurely breakfast I sat in the observation lounge with Aussie friends for three hours enjoying the magnificent view from the large scenic windows. At 12:45 we entered the harbour at King George Island (Maxwell Bay) and by 13:15 the first boat was ready to go ashore to the Chilean Base, "Frei Station". Malcolm and I followed in the last boat at 15:15. The harbour is shared by both the Chilean and Russians bases, the Brazilian base having burnt down the previous day. "A fire in a room housing energy generators led to an explosion that
killed two navy personnel, injured one person, and left 80 percent of
Brazil's Comandante Ferraz Antarctic Station incinerated on Saturday. Located in Admiralty Bay, on King George Island, in the South
Shetland Islands near the tip of the Antarctic Peninsula, the station
was Brazil's only permanent Antarctic base." When we arrived the Brazilians were clustered on the beach awaiting evacuation and we were requested not to approach them as many were still in shock with the loss of friends. With the Antarctic being the driest continent on earth any moisture in the air freezes immediately and the threat of fire is extreme. Malcolm and I visited the Chilean base and were shown around by an air-force flight lieutenant who did his best to explain the base functions in broken English. This station was also involved in the rescue operation of the sinking cruise ship MV Explorer which sunk on 23 November 2007 after being holed by an iceberg. With plenty of time on our hands we wandered around the base first looking at the Chilean church which was made from a number of old shipping containers joined together but very nicely fitted out and then walked over to the Russian side of the harbour and the lovely wooden Russian orthodox church prefabricated in Russia and erected on the hill overlooking the base. This little church is manned all year round by a couple of Russian Orthodox priests. On return to the ship I had a hot shower and then went down to dinner at 19:00 and joined Lynn McN and friends to say farewell before she was evacuated by boat to the Chilean base hospital at 20;00. Tonight everybody was a bit flat although there were complaints from some of the other passengers that they had missed out on another landing in the Antarctic because of the changed sailing plan.
Sunday 22 April 2012
Monday 27 February 2012 - Cuverville Island and Port Lockroy
Our days are busy again with a full program to look forward too. A full day today starting with a landing on Cuverville Island which is covered in snow and home to large Gentoo penguin colonies. The Penguin smell is very strong and if the wind is blowing in the right direction you can smell it on the ship and if you get their droppings on your clothing it will stay in them for months. I walked with Malcolm and two or three others up the steep slope on slippery ice to a high vantage point to get a great view of the beach and ship below, keeping our heads down as the occasional territorial Skuas sweep down at us. Not many people walked up the mountain, preferring to stay on the beach closer to the penguin colonies and lazy seals basking on the beach. Because the Antarctic Treaty does not allow for more then 100 people on land at any one time, we returned to the ship for lunch as boats with more visitors came ashore. I understand that there are about 230 tourists on this trip and each boat takes 9 passengers plus one crew member so you can imagine the ongoing traffic of people coming to land and the empty boat picking up those who are returning to the ship. After lunch we prepared for our next landing at 14:30 at Port Lockroy an English manned tiny island of rock with a small shop and Post Office from where I was able to send 14 cards which were duly stamped and returned in a mail bag to the ship to be landed at Port Stanley in the Falklands and then send to the United Kingdom for on-forwarding to their final destinations. The island is not much bigger then a football field and is manned for the summer months by five or six people and hundreds Gentoo penguins with the seals waiting for a quick feed of the unwary Gentoo in the water. The Gentoo are are so unconcerned by people that they will walk right up to you with no fear at all. Some will stand next to your boot and have a peck at it to see if it's edible. This is a photographers delight although after taking hundreds of photos how many more do you need? Tonight we were told that the ship would have to change it's schedule because we had to sail for the Chilean antarctic base on King George island to land Lyn an Aussie medical evacuee and friend who had a suspected stroke. The good weather continues to hold and we will be steaming all night to arrive early tomorrow at our destination. It's been a busy day and with all the fresh air and being at sea I was pretty tired and asleep at 21:00
Sunday 26 February 2012 - Drake Passage / Half Moon Island
A great night's sleep and comfortable start to the day. Malcolm appears to be better also after his stomach problems. At 09:00 we had a compulsory presentation on "Prevention Measures of Introducing Alien Species to Antarctica" followed by an opportunity for everybody to take bags and coats or such apparel as was being taken ashore for a vacuum cleaning service on 2 deck to ensure that no foreign seeds, pollen or any other unwanted microbes from the mainland are released on the Antarctic peninsula. After lunch everybody was issued with the special warm and watertight Arctic Muck Boots which have to be worn when leaving the ship for any landings. The boots of course are an extra cost which should have been included in the booking price. We were all issued with our own set of boots which we retain for the entire trip and placed on a peg, relating to our cabin number, on 2 deck. At 14:00 we entered the South Shetland Islands and found plenty of photo opportunities and of course being the first time we saw icebergs and got a view of the land everybody snapped away with their cameras. At 16:00 we prepared for the first landing dressing in warm clothes, our waterproof light blue jackets, life jackets and Muck boots and set off 20 minutes later in the Polarcircle boats. Once on land we were instructed about which areas we could visit and where we could not go and then set off to look at and photograph the many Chinstrap penguins and fur seals. Yesterday we were informed that anyone who was crazy enough and wanted to go swimming could do so. Malcolm told me that he would do it for Queen and Country whereas I was more focused and said that I would also go in but it was to be for Honour and Glory and so we joined a couple of other hardy souls from Scandinavia and the Netherlands for a cool swim. Getting our clothes off on the beach with the wind blowing was cold to say the least and the water although just above freezing (yes there were icebergs in it) did feel warmer, I think! Our little swim didn't last very long as we had wandered into the domain of a large and very aggressive male fur seal who took offense and chased us out. In the photo you will see his head a couple of meters away to my right. Drying off and rubbing down (in the wind) was interesting as there was a sensation deep under the skin of tingling and the heat coming back into the chilled blood cells which start to close down under severe cold conditions. For this adventure we get a certificate (maybe that means that we should be certified??). Back onboard it was immediately into a nice hot shower and change for dinner followed by a pre-briefing for tomorrow's landings. To bed and 23:00 and a big sleep!
Saturday 25 February 2012 - At Sea Crossing the Drake Passage
Stayed in bed until 07:30 and enjoyed the non-rushed atmosphere of life onboard ship when you know that everything will be done for you. I have taken over the writing desk and turned that into my small office just like it always was in the navy. Malcolm is more then happy for me to look after the paperwork. We had breakfast at 08:30 although it is available from about 07:00 to 09:30. The sea has been unbelievably smooth and the weather good in this area which is know for treacherous weather conditions. During the day we attended numerous briefings and educational lectures and made new friends. Malcolm has been suffering from an upset stomach which could be due to a bad mussel which he ate last night as part of the sea food which was available for dinner. The day passed quietly as everybody settled into life at sea and adapted to the shipboard routine. Crossing the Drake Passage was uneventful and it is difficult to imagine that this is one of the most unpredictable and dangerous bits of water in the world. The air is so clean and cool here that sleep at night (and during the day) comes easily.
Tuesday 17 April 2012
Friday 24 February 2012 - Buenos Aires to Ushuaia
Another early start with 05:00 rise and breakfast 06:00 for a 07:15 departure to the airport. As our main baggage had been collected during the night all we had to do now was clear security and board our private LAN Chile aircraft for the flight to Ushuaia. The flight took four hours, flying over the snow covered high peaks of the Andes, landing at the small but new airport of Ushuaia on the furthermost edge of South America and facing onto the Beagle Channel. Ushuaia is the capital city of Tierra del Fuego Province, Argentina and is commonly regarded as the southernmost city in the world. The city comes across as an outback town but is interesting and deserves a return holiday one day. At the airport buses were waiting to take the passengers who were booked on the national park tour whilst the remaining passenger went into the city. The Ushuaia national park is another gem hidden away from the world in this far flung outpost of civilisation and is a photographers paradise. The sheer beauty of the mountains and landscape of this part of South America is best known for the adventure travel through Patagonia. At 16:00 we joined the MS Fram and commenced the check in procedure which included issue of a swipe card which was our passport to everything on the ship. No money is used on the ship and all purchases and other transactions are allocated against the individuals swipe card. Also when going ashore or coming back on the ship the card provides the necessary control through the ship's computer database. Our bags were waiting for us in front of our cabin and after unloading all our gear we returned to finalise individual medical documents with the ships doctor and collected the ships bright light blue waterproof jackets. The shipping companies do not let anyone with problematic medical conditions sail to the Antarctic and if you do not posses the medical certificate signed by your doctor you will not be allowed to remain on the ship. Within an hour of joining leaving ship stations and survival suit demonstrations were held. Dinner was a substantial buffet shared with new Aussie friends and Lyn McNaught their tour guide. The ship sailed at 18:00 and tonight I will have my first sleep onboard a ship again since leaving HMAS Yarra in 1983. A new adventure starts today.
Another early start with 05:00 rise and breakfast 06:00 for a 07:15 departure to the airport. As our main baggage had been collected during the night all we had to do now was clear security and board our private LAN Chile aircraft for the flight to Ushuaia. The flight took four hours, flying over the snow covered high peaks of the Andes, landing at the small but new airport of Ushuaia on the furthermost edge of South America and facing onto the Beagle Channel. Ushuaia is the capital city of Tierra del Fuego Province, Argentina and is commonly regarded as the southernmost city in the world. The city comes across as an outback town but is interesting and deserves a return holiday one day. At the airport buses were waiting to take the passengers who were booked on the national park tour whilst the remaining passenger went into the city. The Ushuaia national park is another gem hidden away from the world in this far flung outpost of civilisation and is a photographers paradise. The sheer beauty of the mountains and landscape of this part of South America is best known for the adventure travel through Patagonia. At 16:00 we joined the MS Fram and commenced the check in procedure which included issue of a swipe card which was our passport to everything on the ship. No money is used on the ship and all purchases and other transactions are allocated against the individuals swipe card. Also when going ashore or coming back on the ship the card provides the necessary control through the ship's computer database. Our bags were waiting for us in front of our cabin and after unloading all our gear we returned to finalise individual medical documents with the ships doctor and collected the ships bright light blue waterproof jackets. The shipping companies do not let anyone with problematic medical conditions sail to the Antarctic and if you do not posses the medical certificate signed by your doctor you will not be allowed to remain on the ship. Within an hour of joining leaving ship stations and survival suit demonstrations were held. Dinner was a substantial buffet shared with new Aussie friends and Lyn McNaught their tour guide. The ship sailed at 18:00 and tonight I will have my first sleep onboard a ship again since leaving HMAS Yarra in 1983. A new adventure starts today.
Tuesday 21 February 2012 - Santiago to Buenos Aires
No sleeping in today either
and up at 04:00 for a specially prepared breakfast of fruit and coffee which we
sadly had to share with a very haughty and snotty Argentinian female second
officer of our flight. I'm certain that she believed she could fly
without an aeroplane and already had wings. Our transport arrived at
05:30 for the 30 minute trip along the motorway to the airport. The
Santiago airport is all very professional and comparable to any great airport
in the world. Our LAN Chile flight 453 departed on time at 08:35 arriving
Buenos Aires at 10:40. Baggage collection was a bit tense as my bag came
out 15 minutes after Malcolm's and I thought that it may have been lost.
Customs clearance was also interesting because security took a particular
interest in the teenage couple in front of us and no notice of us. They didn't
even collect our Customs Declarations so we walked straight through
saving our Peruvian carved gourds from any further inspection. Later I
heard that the chap and girl friend were arrested, probably for carrying
drugs. Our driver to the hotel didn't appear to speak English until
Malcolm made a comment about the Opera House being of interest whereupon our
driver responded in perfect English and continued the conversation until we
arrived at the hotel. The Argentinians don't have a great love for the
British at the moment. Our hotel is the 5 star Hotel Emperador with utter
decadent luxury and organised by Thesan Travel, the company which booked our
Antarctic trip. After booking in we pottered about for a bit before
taking a two hour nap, followed by a couple of cold beers and nibbles at the
bar. For dinner it was El Mirasol steak house just around the corner.
El Mirasol was recommended by both the taxi driver and hotel as being the best
steak restaurant in Buenos Aires. Malcolm and I shared our steaks, being
a very tasty skirt steak and an end tenderloin which was brilliant. The
tenderloin was unbelievably tasty and tender and when shared with french garlic
chips, spinach, mushroom sauce with whole mushrooms, and a bottle of local
Merlot was a meal for Kings!! Our waiter, Tito, was the friendliest of
people and given a free hand to recommend the best steak and wine on the menu.
After that feast it was back to reality in the hotel with hand washing to do
before retiring at 21:00.
Thursday 23 February 2012 - Buenos Aires
A leisurely breakfast at 08:00 and then registration with Hurtigruten our Antarctic tour organisers who were tucked away in the basement of the hotel. We booked in for an afternoon bus tour around Buenos Aires, a Ushuaia national parks tour and a Falklands island tour. The rest of the morning was easy going with me continuing to catch up on writing cards and the travel blog whilst Malcolm sat in the garden reading a book. At 15:00 our city tour departed the hotel returning three hours later. This was our first opportunity to meet some of the fellow travelers with whom we would share the next 20 days onboard the good ship, MV Fram. On our return to the hotel we had a quick shower and returned to our favourite steak house for dinner. Tonight we completed repacking the bags which were then left outside the hotel room for collection later that night and transporting to the ship. There were also many items which we did not need to take along on the ship and these were placed in a separate bag which was left at the hotel in the locker room until our return three weeks later.
A leisurely breakfast at 08:00 and then registration with Hurtigruten our Antarctic tour organisers who were tucked away in the basement of the hotel. We booked in for an afternoon bus tour around Buenos Aires, a Ushuaia national parks tour and a Falklands island tour. The rest of the morning was easy going with me continuing to catch up on writing cards and the travel blog whilst Malcolm sat in the garden reading a book. At 15:00 our city tour departed the hotel returning three hours later. This was our first opportunity to meet some of the fellow travelers with whom we would share the next 20 days onboard the good ship, MV Fram. On our return to the hotel we had a quick shower and returned to our favourite steak house for dinner. Tonight we completed repacking the bags which were then left outside the hotel room for collection later that night and transporting to the ship. There were also many items which we did not need to take along on the ship and these were placed in a separate bag which was left at the hotel in the locker room until our return three weeks later.
Wednesday 22 February 2012 - Buenos Aires
Today there was time for a little sleep in until 07:50. A quick but tasty breakfast in the elegant restaurant facing onto the walled garden with waterfall down the 6 meter high back wall. The morning was in our room repacking, cleaning and writing the diary. The time soon gets away when you slow down and take it easy. I was interested to see that the room had Australian power points as well as the standard British/South American style. Just after 13:00 Malcolm and I walked into the city where we were able to take a tour bus on a route around the new harbour, visit the largest soccer arena in Argentina and the embassy part of the city and some of the richer areas of town. We were back in the city centre at 16:50. Malcolm bought us both an icecream, we then looked at a couple of shops and walked back through the city park, stopping at the Belgrano memorial for photos. Dinner was once again at El Mirasol to sample some different steaks. Tito the waiter was happy to see us again and received a hefty tip to show our appreciation for his good service. In Argentina a waiter earns about 750 Pesos a month. This is equivalent to about $175. (In Peru a school teacher earns $450 to $500 per month which is probably equivalent to one fourteenth the Australian wage). Retired for an early night.
Today there was time for a little sleep in until 07:50. A quick but tasty breakfast in the elegant restaurant facing onto the walled garden with waterfall down the 6 meter high back wall. The morning was in our room repacking, cleaning and writing the diary. The time soon gets away when you slow down and take it easy. I was interested to see that the room had Australian power points as well as the standard British/South American style. Just after 13:00 Malcolm and I walked into the city where we were able to take a tour bus on a route around the new harbour, visit the largest soccer arena in Argentina and the embassy part of the city and some of the richer areas of town. We were back in the city centre at 16:50. Malcolm bought us both an icecream, we then looked at a couple of shops and walked back through the city park, stopping at the Belgrano memorial for photos. Dinner was once again at El Mirasol to sample some different steaks. Tito the waiter was happy to see us again and received a hefty tip to show our appreciation for his good service. In Argentina a waiter earns about 750 Pesos a month. This is equivalent to about $175. (In Peru a school teacher earns $450 to $500 per month which is probably equivalent to one fourteenth the Australian wage). Retired for an early night.
Sunday 15 April 2012
Monday 20 February 2012 La Pas (Bolivia) - Santiago (Chile)
At 0900 our Ukrainian tour guide Larissa collected us from the hotel Presidente for an escorted tour through the city and La Pas surrounds. Firstly we went to the cathedral and presidential palace and being a public holiday today the streets were empty. The whole place looks and feels shabby, tired and poor. We walked down the oldest street in the city and onto the the market place before going by car to visit Moon Valley. Larissa explained how the poor live on the hills and the rich in the valleys, this is exactly opposite to Australia where the rich live on the hills with the good views. We returned to the city to wander through the Witches Market and view the old cobbled streets in the Indian quarter. Being a feast day today the city centre was closed for the festivities and it was chaos with cars and small buses in gridlock and jamming all intersections with traffic brought to a standstill or slow crawl. To be sensible and safe it was decided to make our way to the airport early. Having said our goodbye's to Larissa at the airport terminal Malcolm and I filled in the two hour wait with a hamburger and coffee before boarding our LAN Chile flight to Santiago at 16:00, stopping at Iquique in the desert to complete Chilean immigration papers. In La Pas the plane sat on the runway for almost an hour due to "heavy traffic" although during that time only two or three palnes landed and two departed, it's all a bit "manyana time" here. Whilst waiting in the La Pas terminal a very upset American told me how he put his personal effects into a tray to be scanned at security and when it came out the other end his mobile phone had been stolen, probably by one of the security guards. At Iquique we met again and he told me that airport security and checked their security cameras and caught the thief with the happy outcome that the stolen mobile phone was returned. On arrival in Santiago there were some problems with bringing in the carved gourds from Peru because they had seeds inside but after explaining that we were transiting Customs cleared us through. Our driver provided by LAN Chile Airways was waiting at the door and took us to the Four Point Sheraton, arriving at 23:00. Santiago looks like a lovely, very clean and modern city. I would like more time here to explore.
At 0900 our Ukrainian tour guide Larissa collected us from the hotel Presidente for an escorted tour through the city and La Pas surrounds. Firstly we went to the cathedral and presidential palace and being a public holiday today the streets were empty. The whole place looks and feels shabby, tired and poor. We walked down the oldest street in the city and onto the the market place before going by car to visit Moon Valley. Larissa explained how the poor live on the hills and the rich in the valleys, this is exactly opposite to Australia where the rich live on the hills with the good views. We returned to the city to wander through the Witches Market and view the old cobbled streets in the Indian quarter. Being a feast day today the city centre was closed for the festivities and it was chaos with cars and small buses in gridlock and jamming all intersections with traffic brought to a standstill or slow crawl. To be sensible and safe it was decided to make our way to the airport early. Having said our goodbye's to Larissa at the airport terminal Malcolm and I filled in the two hour wait with a hamburger and coffee before boarding our LAN Chile flight to Santiago at 16:00, stopping at Iquique in the desert to complete Chilean immigration papers. In La Pas the plane sat on the runway for almost an hour due to "heavy traffic" although during that time only two or three palnes landed and two departed, it's all a bit "manyana time" here. Whilst waiting in the La Pas terminal a very upset American told me how he put his personal effects into a tray to be scanned at security and when it came out the other end his mobile phone had been stolen, probably by one of the security guards. At Iquique we met again and he told me that airport security and checked their security cameras and caught the thief with the happy outcome that the stolen mobile phone was returned. On arrival in Santiago there were some problems with bringing in the carved gourds from Peru because they had seeds inside but after explaining that we were transiting Customs cleared us through. Our driver provided by LAN Chile Airways was waiting at the door and took us to the Four Point Sheraton, arriving at 23:00. Santiago looks like a lovely, very clean and modern city. I would like more time here to explore.
Saturday 14 April 2012
Sunday 19 February 2012 Lake Titicaca
Today we had a 4:30 start with departure at 6:10. To have breakfast we had to have the chef open up the restaurant early and put on a special little breakfast for us and another Aussie couple, Rod and Ellie, who were also traveling on the boat across Lake Titicaca. Our tour guide, Eduardo, drove us 85 km to the Bolivian border and then handed us over to Roberto the Bolivian guide who took us onto Copacabana (it sounds idyllic but isn't really) to see the statue of the Black Virgin in the cathedral and the local markets where there was a blessing of the cars. Before boarding the large 3 deck ferry there was still time to do some shopping in the market and buy baby Alpaca scarves for the ladies back home. Half an hour later we set off across Lake Titicaca. A basic morning tea of sandwiches and coffee was served as soon as we set sail. Unfortunately we had to share the tour with a group of about 60 Russians who had the manners of "pigs at a trough" when it came to getting food from the buffet and were an uncultured and rough lot, not thinking twice about pushing anybody out of the way, be they male or female. The boat stopped at Sun Island where first we had a short trip on a reed boat build in the traditional Inca way before touring part of the island where it is said the Inca Empire began, and being blessed by the islands Shaman at a small private ceremony. The next part of the boat journey took us to Chua in Bolivia from where we were taken by private tour bus, driven by a Bolivian maniac on the wrong side of the road for most of the 100 km to La Pas. After a 2 hour journey we arrived at La Pas at 21:30. La Pas is set at an altitude of 3,650 m (11,975 ft) (the city is built on steep hills), making it the world's highest "de facto" capital city, or administrative capital. On our bus were two young Italian sisters who came from a "well to do family" in Naples who were also staying in the President hotel and joined us for dinner that evening. We finally retired at midnight after a long and eventful day.
Today we had a 4:30 start with departure at 6:10. To have breakfast we had to have the chef open up the restaurant early and put on a special little breakfast for us and another Aussie couple, Rod and Ellie, who were also traveling on the boat across Lake Titicaca. Our tour guide, Eduardo, drove us 85 km to the Bolivian border and then handed us over to Roberto the Bolivian guide who took us onto Copacabana (it sounds idyllic but isn't really) to see the statue of the Black Virgin in the cathedral and the local markets where there was a blessing of the cars. Before boarding the large 3 deck ferry there was still time to do some shopping in the market and buy baby Alpaca scarves for the ladies back home. Half an hour later we set off across Lake Titicaca. A basic morning tea of sandwiches and coffee was served as soon as we set sail. Unfortunately we had to share the tour with a group of about 60 Russians who had the manners of "pigs at a trough" when it came to getting food from the buffet and were an uncultured and rough lot, not thinking twice about pushing anybody out of the way, be they male or female. The boat stopped at Sun Island where first we had a short trip on a reed boat build in the traditional Inca way before touring part of the island where it is said the Inca Empire began, and being blessed by the islands Shaman at a small private ceremony. The next part of the boat journey took us to Chua in Bolivia from where we were taken by private tour bus, driven by a Bolivian maniac on the wrong side of the road for most of the 100 km to La Pas. After a 2 hour journey we arrived at La Pas at 21:30. La Pas is set at an altitude of 3,650 m (11,975 ft) (the city is built on steep hills), making it the world's highest "de facto" capital city, or administrative capital. On our bus were two young Italian sisters who came from a "well to do family" in Naples who were also staying in the President hotel and joined us for dinner that evening. We finally retired at midnight after a long and eventful day.
Saturday 18 February 2012 - Cuzco to Puno
An early start today, up at 05:40 for ablutions and final pack. After a quick breakfast we were collected at 07:20 for transfer to the Andean Explorer train and the 10 hour journey to Puno on the edge of lake Titicaca. The train trip is on a narrow gauge rail line and a bit slow and rocky, but it's classy. The train is now owned by the Orient Express, has big picture windows and a bar carriage with comfortable seating and an open air observation platform. As we left Cuzco we saw the poverty and dirt of the suburbs. There are no made roads here and after the rains everything is covered in mud. The local people appear to accept their predicament and make the best of their situation. Without a doubt the Peruvians that we met were the kindest, gentlest and happiest people considering their hand to mouth existence. Once the city was behind us the countryside opened up with the snow capped Andes rising to a height of 6350 metres (20,835feet) on our left. After 178km journey, with the large diesel pulling us up a slow and steady ascent, we arrive at La Raya Pass, the highest point of our journey at 4313 metres (just over 14,150 feet). We stop here for a 10 minute photo break and some bartering with the locals at their small market next to the railway line. As we pulled out light snow started to fall. During the morning a fashion show of baby Alpaca fine wool garments and Inca music and dancing was put on for the 20 passengers on the train. The train was made up of a diesel engine, baggage car, kitchen and staff car, dining car and the bar car with viewing platform. During the journey coffee, tea and non alcoholic drinks are freely available and the bar is open if required. I had a couple of pisco sours, the Peruvian national drink. Lunch comprised an entree of stuffed potato, trout for main course and chocolate mouse desert, during which we were entertained with a further display of singing and dancing. Arriving at Puno at about 19:00 we were met by our guide and transported to the hotel located at the edge of Lake Titicaca, the world's highest commercially navigable lake, at 3,860 m (12,421 ft) above sea level, on the Peruvian Altiplano. That evening as I sat writing my diary I felt lighted headed and dizzy due to altitude as well as feeling bloated another sign of altitude. The lady in the room opposite us had to be given oxygen that evening due to altitude sickness. I kept up a steady supply of cocoa tea which I presume has cocaine derivatives in it but is recommended for altitude sickness and also drunk by the locals who say it gives extra energy. On the train we met a Canadian couple who are both actors. The ladies (she had platted blond hair and looked like Heidi) father, also an actor played the part of the ambitious Bishop Waleran Bigod (Ian McShane) in the Ken Follett movie "The Pillars of the Earth". We didn't have dinner tonight as we had eaten more then enough all day. I completed my Immigration documents for Bolivia before going to bed.
Pisco Sour recipe
An early start today, up at 05:40 for ablutions and final pack. After a quick breakfast we were collected at 07:20 for transfer to the Andean Explorer train and the 10 hour journey to Puno on the edge of lake Titicaca. The train trip is on a narrow gauge rail line and a bit slow and rocky, but it's classy. The train is now owned by the Orient Express, has big picture windows and a bar carriage with comfortable seating and an open air observation platform. As we left Cuzco we saw the poverty and dirt of the suburbs. There are no made roads here and after the rains everything is covered in mud. The local people appear to accept their predicament and make the best of their situation. Without a doubt the Peruvians that we met were the kindest, gentlest and happiest people considering their hand to mouth existence. Once the city was behind us the countryside opened up with the snow capped Andes rising to a height of 6350 metres (20,835feet) on our left. After 178km journey, with the large diesel pulling us up a slow and steady ascent, we arrive at La Raya Pass, the highest point of our journey at 4313 metres (just over 14,150 feet). We stop here for a 10 minute photo break and some bartering with the locals at their small market next to the railway line. As we pulled out light snow started to fall. During the morning a fashion show of baby Alpaca fine wool garments and Inca music and dancing was put on for the 20 passengers on the train. The train was made up of a diesel engine, baggage car, kitchen and staff car, dining car and the bar car with viewing platform. During the journey coffee, tea and non alcoholic drinks are freely available and the bar is open if required. I had a couple of pisco sours, the Peruvian national drink. Lunch comprised an entree of stuffed potato, trout for main course and chocolate mouse desert, during which we were entertained with a further display of singing and dancing. Arriving at Puno at about 19:00 we were met by our guide and transported to the hotel located at the edge of Lake Titicaca, the world's highest commercially navigable lake, at 3,860 m (12,421 ft) above sea level, on the Peruvian Altiplano. That evening as I sat writing my diary I felt lighted headed and dizzy due to altitude as well as feeling bloated another sign of altitude. The lady in the room opposite us had to be given oxygen that evening due to altitude sickness. I kept up a steady supply of cocoa tea which I presume has cocaine derivatives in it but is recommended for altitude sickness and also drunk by the locals who say it gives extra energy. On the train we met a Canadian couple who are both actors. The ladies (she had platted blond hair and looked like Heidi) father, also an actor played the part of the ambitious Bishop Waleran Bigod (Ian McShane) in the Ken Follett movie "The Pillars of the Earth". We didn't have dinner tonight as we had eaten more then enough all day. I completed my Immigration documents for Bolivia before going to bed.
Pisco Sour recipe
The pisco sour cocktail, invented in Peru around 1900, uses a pisco (Peruvian grape brandy) that has a bit of bite to it--that is, nothing too smooth--to create the balance in this creamy, frothy, limey drink.
Ingredients
- 1/4 cup (2 oz.) pisco (see notes)
- 1 tablespoon sugar
- 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
- 1 teaspoon pasteurized egg whites
Preparation
- In a blender, whirl 3 ice cubes, pisco, sugar, fresh lime juice, and egg whites. Whirl until smooth (you'll no longer hear the ice cracking against the side of the blender) and serve straight up in a martini glass with a dash of aromatic bitters and a wedge of lime.
Friday 17 February 2012 - Cuzco
A free day today with good sleep-in until 08:30. After breakfast there was time to catch up on Blog writing and answer some urgent emails which kept me going until 12:30. Malcolm and I then ventured out to the Inca Museum which although basic is still very interesting. Just as we were leaving the rain started so we wandered around the upper floor balcony which a covered "hacienda style" and found a young lady and her brother carving beautifully detailed miniature Inca pictures onto dried gourds. The work is so detailed and tiny that it is difficult to see without a magnifying glass, yet the carving is done with the naked eye. I had to buy two as they are too beautiful not too! As the rain had not yet stopped we continued our exploration of the external precinct of the museum and entered another room which had a musician playing hand made Inca traditional instruments. He had various clay animal shaped instruments which when filled with water and tipped forwards and backwards imitate various animal sounds and if we had not been in the room we would have believed these to be from the real living animal. The musician then played for us and as was to be expected Malcolm purchased a pan-flute and normal flute and I a CD. By now the rain had ceased and we walked a short distance around the corner to the pre-Columbian museum housed in a more substantial building and displaying a large collection of silver, gold, shell and pottery objects. The skill of these early Peruvian craftsmen matches those of ancient Egypt, Rome or medieval Europe. By 19:00 we were in need of a good meal we had not eaten since breakfast. Near the hotel we discovered a tiny pizzeria which produced a very tasty pizza with the "lot" and a good bottle of wine. At the only other occupied table sat a Canadian/French couple, who when we told them about the birth of the baby Llama, indicated that they were the couple who had helped with the delivery because the Llama was having a difficult time and the locals didn't know what to do. the Canadians were husband and wife and also doctor and nurse. By 20:00 we were back at the hotel and found Michelle, the American lady waiting for us. We had a drink with her and called it a night at22:00.
A free day today with good sleep-in until 08:30. After breakfast there was time to catch up on Blog writing and answer some urgent emails which kept me going until 12:30. Malcolm and I then ventured out to the Inca Museum which although basic is still very interesting. Just as we were leaving the rain started so we wandered around the upper floor balcony which a covered "hacienda style" and found a young lady and her brother carving beautifully detailed miniature Inca pictures onto dried gourds. The work is so detailed and tiny that it is difficult to see without a magnifying glass, yet the carving is done with the naked eye. I had to buy two as they are too beautiful not too! As the rain had not yet stopped we continued our exploration of the external precinct of the museum and entered another room which had a musician playing hand made Inca traditional instruments. He had various clay animal shaped instruments which when filled with water and tipped forwards and backwards imitate various animal sounds and if we had not been in the room we would have believed these to be from the real living animal. The musician then played for us and as was to be expected Malcolm purchased a pan-flute and normal flute and I a CD. By now the rain had ceased and we walked a short distance around the corner to the pre-Columbian museum housed in a more substantial building and displaying a large collection of silver, gold, shell and pottery objects. The skill of these early Peruvian craftsmen matches those of ancient Egypt, Rome or medieval Europe. By 19:00 we were in need of a good meal we had not eaten since breakfast. Near the hotel we discovered a tiny pizzeria which produced a very tasty pizza with the "lot" and a good bottle of wine. At the only other occupied table sat a Canadian/French couple, who when we told them about the birth of the baby Llama, indicated that they were the couple who had helped with the delivery because the Llama was having a difficult time and the locals didn't know what to do. the Canadians were husband and wife and also doctor and nurse. By 20:00 we were back at the hotel and found Michelle, the American lady waiting for us. We had a drink with her and called it a night at22:00.
Friday 24 February 2012
Thursday 16 Feb 2012 Ollantaytambo
After a basic breakfast our next guide ¨Julie¨ from Cuzco arrived at 0830. The private car drove us to the Ollantaytambo ruins, which we climbed and we had a full historical coverage from Julie. Here we were climbing at heights well of 3500 meters and it was heartening to see that even our guide was puffing a little at this altitude. However Malcolm and I both managed well and although feeling stuffy and sometimes light headed we had no troubles. All of our time in Peru and Bolivia was at an altitude of over 10,000 feet. In the ruins we were once again awe struck by the craftsman ship and size of stone blocks moved by hand up steep mountain sides. Julie pointed out the quarry high up on the mountain across the valley and the sloping roadway prepared for bringing up the stones. After Ollantaytambo we stopped at Chinchero (3762m) where we had a display of weaving by a local lady. I once again felt that I should support the local economy and purchased two handmade table runners. Each piece takes one month to weave. When I paid I gave the lady an extra $10 and she almost cried and hugged me, followed by a kiss on the cheek. Julie once again said to me ¨thank you for helping my people¨. The Inca descendents really are beautiful and warm people and you can´t but feel that you want to reach out to them. Then it was on to Pisac markets in the large tourist town of Pisac. There is a level of discontent here from the farmers because their market has become a tourist hub and obviously affecting their trade of fresh produce. Julie took us to a silver smith and shop as Malcolm and I are both a bit over the market scene by now. Here we watched the raw silver being turned into the lovely jewllery set with stones. Lunch was at an old Hacienda which was converted into a very swanky tourist restaurant where we sat on the veranda and listened to Inca music played on the pan pipes. As we were about to leave we were treated to a Llama giving birth, with the assistance of the staff. I was later told that it is very good luck to witness a Llama birth. On the way back to Cuzco we passed through verdant valleys overshadowed by the Andes mountain range. In Qenqo we visited a sacred site and the sacrificial stone table used for Llama and possible human sacrifices where the heart was cut from the living body and sacrificed to the gods. People with cleft palates, children and virgins were the primary human sacrifice. When Julie dropped us off at the hotel she gave us a big hug and thanked us. When I gave her a tip she thanked us for caring for her people again. When we were settled into the Cuzco hotel again we collected our heavy luggage which had been there for two days and then walked to a local restaurant for a spagetti dinner. This evening Malcolm did our clothes washing in the bath. To bed at 21:00 tonight.
After a basic breakfast our next guide ¨Julie¨ from Cuzco arrived at 0830. The private car drove us to the Ollantaytambo ruins, which we climbed and we had a full historical coverage from Julie. Here we were climbing at heights well of 3500 meters and it was heartening to see that even our guide was puffing a little at this altitude. However Malcolm and I both managed well and although feeling stuffy and sometimes light headed we had no troubles. All of our time in Peru and Bolivia was at an altitude of over 10,000 feet. In the ruins we were once again awe struck by the craftsman ship and size of stone blocks moved by hand up steep mountain sides. Julie pointed out the quarry high up on the mountain across the valley and the sloping roadway prepared for bringing up the stones. After Ollantaytambo we stopped at Chinchero (3762m) where we had a display of weaving by a local lady. I once again felt that I should support the local economy and purchased two handmade table runners. Each piece takes one month to weave. When I paid I gave the lady an extra $10 and she almost cried and hugged me, followed by a kiss on the cheek. Julie once again said to me ¨thank you for helping my people¨. The Inca descendents really are beautiful and warm people and you can´t but feel that you want to reach out to them. Then it was on to Pisac markets in the large tourist town of Pisac. There is a level of discontent here from the farmers because their market has become a tourist hub and obviously affecting their trade of fresh produce. Julie took us to a silver smith and shop as Malcolm and I are both a bit over the market scene by now. Here we watched the raw silver being turned into the lovely jewllery set with stones. Lunch was at an old Hacienda which was converted into a very swanky tourist restaurant where we sat on the veranda and listened to Inca music played on the pan pipes. As we were about to leave we were treated to a Llama giving birth, with the assistance of the staff. I was later told that it is very good luck to witness a Llama birth. On the way back to Cuzco we passed through verdant valleys overshadowed by the Andes mountain range. In Qenqo we visited a sacred site and the sacrificial stone table used for Llama and possible human sacrifices where the heart was cut from the living body and sacrificed to the gods. People with cleft palates, children and virgins were the primary human sacrifice. When Julie dropped us off at the hotel she gave us a big hug and thanked us. When I gave her a tip she thanked us for caring for her people again. When we were settled into the Cuzco hotel again we collected our heavy luggage which had been there for two days and then walked to a local restaurant for a spagetti dinner. This evening Malcolm did our clothes washing in the bath. To bed at 21:00 tonight.
Wednesday 15 Feb 2012 Machu Picchu
Up at 04:00 again for a 05:30 pickup by our guide Augustine who was waiting at the front desk. We walked into town in a light drizzle, which thankfully cleared up before we reached the mountain top. In town we boarded a medium size bus which departed as soon as the seats were filled and took us up the switch back road on the side of a very steep mountain to the entrance gates for Machu Picchu at 2400m. Passing other busses was extremely tight and often the wheels were within less then half a meter of the precipice. At the entrance we thought that we´d lost our guide who also had all our tickets, but he was in the toilet for about 15 minutes although it seemed much longer then that. Augustines knowledge of Machu Picchu was great and the three hour tour and explanations were outstanding. After our guide departed we were free to fill in our time and settled for a cold drink and some local dried fruit before returning back to the village below. We could have stayed all day but the tourists were out in force by now as opposed to when we arrived at 06:20 when there was no one on the mountain. It is difficult to explain the beautie of this small city with it´s wonderous stone work and views across the mountains and one has to ask ¨how did the Incas do this¨. Words can´t explain but my photos tell the story. It would be very easy to stay here longer and be taken up into the Inca culture which still lives on in the peoples of Peru. In Aquas Calientes Malcolm and I wandered the street and took photos of the flooded river. We had a nice meal in a small restaurant next to the railway line. The train here runs through the middle of town and people are always walking across it or kids playing on it. From our table to the train there were perhaps 2 or 3 meters and no fences. Back at the hotel there was sufficient time to have shower and drink in preparation for the next train journey. The journey to Ollantaytambo was pleasant and we were met at the station by our next guide who took us to the Hotel Pakaritampu. The hotel is set in beautiful gardens and overlooks the Inca ruins on the surrounding mountains. Regretably this hotel also had the worst staff and quality of meals. Early to bed tonight as we were both worn out.
Up at 04:00 again for a 05:30 pickup by our guide Augustine who was waiting at the front desk. We walked into town in a light drizzle, which thankfully cleared up before we reached the mountain top. In town we boarded a medium size bus which departed as soon as the seats were filled and took us up the switch back road on the side of a very steep mountain to the entrance gates for Machu Picchu at 2400m. Passing other busses was extremely tight and often the wheels were within less then half a meter of the precipice. At the entrance we thought that we´d lost our guide who also had all our tickets, but he was in the toilet for about 15 minutes although it seemed much longer then that. Augustines knowledge of Machu Picchu was great and the three hour tour and explanations were outstanding. After our guide departed we were free to fill in our time and settled for a cold drink and some local dried fruit before returning back to the village below. We could have stayed all day but the tourists were out in force by now as opposed to when we arrived at 06:20 when there was no one on the mountain. It is difficult to explain the beautie of this small city with it´s wonderous stone work and views across the mountains and one has to ask ¨how did the Incas do this¨. Words can´t explain but my photos tell the story. It would be very easy to stay here longer and be taken up into the Inca culture which still lives on in the peoples of Peru. In Aquas Calientes Malcolm and I wandered the street and took photos of the flooded river. We had a nice meal in a small restaurant next to the railway line. The train here runs through the middle of town and people are always walking across it or kids playing on it. From our table to the train there were perhaps 2 or 3 meters and no fences. Back at the hotel there was sufficient time to have shower and drink in preparation for the next train journey. The journey to Ollantaytambo was pleasant and we were met at the station by our next guide who took us to the Hotel Pakaritampu. The hotel is set in beautiful gardens and overlooks the Inca ruins on the surrounding mountains. Regretably this hotel also had the worst staff and quality of meals. Early to bed tonight as we were both worn out.
Tuesday 14 Feb 2012 Valentines Day & Aguas Calientes
Up at 04:00 for a 05:00 departure by bus to the Cuzco railway station. An interesting day was to unfold as the railway line to Machue Picchu and Poroy was blocked by landslides after extremely heavy rain falls. The train was supposed to leave at 07:40 but in the end we had to take a bus at 08:30 which delivered us to a station near Ollantaytambo at 09:50. The countryside is magnificent with massive mountains rising to 6000m+ and covered in snow. At Ollantaytambo we waited in a small restaurant so we didn´t have to stand outside until 13:25 before we finally knew if our train was running that day. There was a lot of grumbling from many travellers and some decided to return to Cuzco, however our patience paid off. While we waited we befriended a Brazillian and his daughter and chatted away the hours with them. The train trip was well worth the wait and in clear weather, but was partially spoilt by an East European traveller who believed that he was the only person entitled to stand near the front window to take photos. Then to add to the annoyance there was a group of Japanese tourists who did not stop chattering like a flock of birds for the entire time and their guide who thought that the entire carriage was interested in his Japanese rhetoric. The railwayline followed the flooded river, which is a tributary/ or begining of the Amazon, and provided magnificent views. The cliff faces rise straight out of the river and tower hundreds of meters above the valley. Arrived at Aquas Calientes (Hot Springs) at 15:10. Our hotel the Inkaterra Machu Picchu is magnificent, set in native forrest surrounds, with shop, restaurant, spas, saunas and rooms in separate bungalows to die for. This was luxury plus. During the afternoon we met a Dutch biochemist and his Thai wife who were travelling the world until September in search of a nice country to retire too. That evening i had Guinea pig for dinner. Not much meat on the little fellas, about equivalent to four slices of ham. To bed at 22:00 for big day again tomorrow.
PS I had to wish Malcolm a Happy Valentines Day from his wife Lindy!!! A bit novel. :-)
Up at 04:00 for a 05:00 departure by bus to the Cuzco railway station. An interesting day was to unfold as the railway line to Machue Picchu and Poroy was blocked by landslides after extremely heavy rain falls. The train was supposed to leave at 07:40 but in the end we had to take a bus at 08:30 which delivered us to a station near Ollantaytambo at 09:50. The countryside is magnificent with massive mountains rising to 6000m+ and covered in snow. At Ollantaytambo we waited in a small restaurant so we didn´t have to stand outside until 13:25 before we finally knew if our train was running that day. There was a lot of grumbling from many travellers and some decided to return to Cuzco, however our patience paid off. While we waited we befriended a Brazillian and his daughter and chatted away the hours with them. The train trip was well worth the wait and in clear weather, but was partially spoilt by an East European traveller who believed that he was the only person entitled to stand near the front window to take photos. Then to add to the annoyance there was a group of Japanese tourists who did not stop chattering like a flock of birds for the entire time and their guide who thought that the entire carriage was interested in his Japanese rhetoric. The railwayline followed the flooded river, which is a tributary/ or begining of the Amazon, and provided magnificent views. The cliff faces rise straight out of the river and tower hundreds of meters above the valley. Arrived at Aquas Calientes (Hot Springs) at 15:10. Our hotel the Inkaterra Machu Picchu is magnificent, set in native forrest surrounds, with shop, restaurant, spas, saunas and rooms in separate bungalows to die for. This was luxury plus. During the afternoon we met a Dutch biochemist and his Thai wife who were travelling the world until September in search of a nice country to retire too. That evening i had Guinea pig for dinner. Not much meat on the little fellas, about equivalent to four slices of ham. To bed at 22:00 for big day again tomorrow.
PS I had to wish Malcolm a Happy Valentines Day from his wife Lindy!!! A bit novel. :-)
Monday 13 feb 2012 Cuzco
A big day today starting at 0900 with Julie our guide who drove us around the main parts of the centre of Cuzco, after our visit to the temple of the Sun which is enclosed within a Catholic church. The church used the Inca buildings for its priests and other activities. The stone work in the Inca buildings is amazing and perfect and could teach our building industry a lot when it comes to perfect quality and care to detail. It is not possible to slide a piece of paper between the stones and some of these weigh many tonnes. Apparently there are not many Spanish who visit the old Inca sites because they are embarrassed by the way their nation plundered and destroyed this culture. There is a sprinkling of Aussies, Germans, plenty of Americans but also Canadians and other Europeans who come here. Next we visited a family business of Alpaca weavers where I bought a ladies scarf made from baby Alpaca wool and a beanie for myself. As on all holidays there is always another ancient and interesting cathedral and adjoining church to visit. The wood carvings and oil paintings are quite magnificent and reflect strongly the intertwining of the catholic and Inca religions. This is very similar to the early Christians adopting Roman calendar dates for special events and thereby combining a pagan and Christian religions into one. We drove out to the massive Inca ruins of SACSAYWAMAN also referred to as ¨Sexy Woman¨, which are believed to have been a religious centre but no one knows for certain. The blocks of stone used here weigh up to 200 ton. The weather today finally caught up with us and continuous rain made made any further outdoor activities unpleasant so we returned to our hotel at 12:30, and off to a quick lunch in a local tiny restaurant where tourists don´t go. We had mixed vegies deep fried inside a mashed potato jacket, fried rice and a coke for 18 Solis or about $6 for two people. Later our guide told us that we should not have eaten there as we could have been sick! Pamela our next guide arrived at 13:30 and took us to a local restaurant to try some free local corn beer on the promise that we would go back for a full meal later. After that we drove to a wild life park outside Cuzco where injured animals are cared for. We extremely lucky to be within the vicinity of three full grown Condors who flew so low over our heads that we had to duck down. Not many people can say that they have experienced that. I have some great photos which will follow later. Malcolm and I both donated $10 as the park is private and runs on donations. This was followed by a visit to a Llama and Alpaca farm where they breed, shear, colour and do traditional weaving of the wool before selling the finished product. We were very good this time and didn´t buy anything. Our drivers next took us to the Sacred Valley to take photos. It is a real concern that everywhere we look in Peru the gum trees are taking over. Back in Cuzco Pamela took us took a small restaurant to try the local sweet desert which is made from mashed sweet potatoes deep fried in the shape of a doughnut and doused in syrup. Tonight we packed for early departure the next day.
A big day today starting at 0900 with Julie our guide who drove us around the main parts of the centre of Cuzco, after our visit to the temple of the Sun which is enclosed within a Catholic church. The church used the Inca buildings for its priests and other activities. The stone work in the Inca buildings is amazing and perfect and could teach our building industry a lot when it comes to perfect quality and care to detail. It is not possible to slide a piece of paper between the stones and some of these weigh many tonnes. Apparently there are not many Spanish who visit the old Inca sites because they are embarrassed by the way their nation plundered and destroyed this culture. There is a sprinkling of Aussies, Germans, plenty of Americans but also Canadians and other Europeans who come here. Next we visited a family business of Alpaca weavers where I bought a ladies scarf made from baby Alpaca wool and a beanie for myself. As on all holidays there is always another ancient and interesting cathedral and adjoining church to visit. The wood carvings and oil paintings are quite magnificent and reflect strongly the intertwining of the catholic and Inca religions. This is very similar to the early Christians adopting Roman calendar dates for special events and thereby combining a pagan and Christian religions into one. We drove out to the massive Inca ruins of SACSAYWAMAN also referred to as ¨Sexy Woman¨, which are believed to have been a religious centre but no one knows for certain. The blocks of stone used here weigh up to 200 ton. The weather today finally caught up with us and continuous rain made made any further outdoor activities unpleasant so we returned to our hotel at 12:30, and off to a quick lunch in a local tiny restaurant where tourists don´t go. We had mixed vegies deep fried inside a mashed potato jacket, fried rice and a coke for 18 Solis or about $6 for two people. Later our guide told us that we should not have eaten there as we could have been sick! Pamela our next guide arrived at 13:30 and took us to a local restaurant to try some free local corn beer on the promise that we would go back for a full meal later. After that we drove to a wild life park outside Cuzco where injured animals are cared for. We extremely lucky to be within the vicinity of three full grown Condors who flew so low over our heads that we had to duck down. Not many people can say that they have experienced that. I have some great photos which will follow later. Malcolm and I both donated $10 as the park is private and runs on donations. This was followed by a visit to a Llama and Alpaca farm where they breed, shear, colour and do traditional weaving of the wool before selling the finished product. We were very good this time and didn´t buy anything. Our drivers next took us to the Sacred Valley to take photos. It is a real concern that everywhere we look in Peru the gum trees are taking over. Back in Cuzco Pamela took us took a small restaurant to try the local sweet desert which is made from mashed sweet potatoes deep fried in the shape of a doughnut and doused in syrup. Tonight we packed for early departure the next day.
Wednesday 22 February 2012
Sunday 12 February 12 Cuzco
Didn´t sleep all that well and was up at 06:30. Made Malcolm and myself a cup of Coca tea which is pretty awfull tasting stuff but supposed to help with altitude sickness. On the road again to the airport by 09:00 and with our guide, Eva, who helped us check in for the 10:30 LAN Chile flight to Cuzco. The plane arrived late and we didn´t commence boarding until 10:30 and then sat on the runway for an hour because of the heavy airport traffic, although we only saw about three planes land and take off. This is South America where everything runs to it´s own schedule and we arrived in Cuzco 1.5 hours late. But for the late arrival, American Airways could learn a lot from LAN Chile on how to run an airline and present their staff. Overall it was a very professional and slick operation from LAN. In Cuzco we were booked into the Casa Andina by 14:20. A lovely hotel close to the middle of town. Whilst I was pottering Malcolm organised a guide for the afternoon¨. Pamela arrived at 14:00 and took us for a drive through the city to see the old and the new. Our brief for the guides is always show us the real people and how they live and not the touristy stuff that everyone else goes to! Our first stop was at a local country market where only the locals go. It was amazingly clean although by Australian standards it wouldn´t pass. The people who are mostly Inca backgound are truly poor but they make a real effort and the good thing is that you don´t see beggars on the streets here, everyone works or starves. Next to the oldest part of town with narrow little climbing, winding streets. Most of the buildings here are on top of Inca stone foundations. Near the church in this section are also some art shops who produce work in the style of the 17th century, so in order to help the local economy and support the painters I purchased a couple. We visited the historical church of San Blas purported to have the most beautiful pulpit in the world and carved from local cedar by local Indian Inca craftsmen. Many of the paintings in the church were undertaken by an Inca artist who was converted to Chritianity. Walked the narrow streets by evening street lighting, visiting a tiny little shop selling souvenirs. The little girl running the shop couldn´t have been older then 8 or 9 years and lived there with her mother behind a curtain. We didn´t buy anything but gave her two dollars US which is a lot for the poor. Arrived back at the hotel at 19:00 and had dinner at the hotel which cost us US$135 which included a tip. The wine cost $40 for a bottle of Chilean Merlow. Wine is expensive here because only the rich people drink it. We were both tired because of travell and the altitude of above ten thousand feet.
Photos to follow.
Didn´t sleep all that well and was up at 06:30. Made Malcolm and myself a cup of Coca tea which is pretty awfull tasting stuff but supposed to help with altitude sickness. On the road again to the airport by 09:00 and with our guide, Eva, who helped us check in for the 10:30 LAN Chile flight to Cuzco. The plane arrived late and we didn´t commence boarding until 10:30 and then sat on the runway for an hour because of the heavy airport traffic, although we only saw about three planes land and take off. This is South America where everything runs to it´s own schedule and we arrived in Cuzco 1.5 hours late. But for the late arrival, American Airways could learn a lot from LAN Chile on how to run an airline and present their staff. Overall it was a very professional and slick operation from LAN. In Cuzco we were booked into the Casa Andina by 14:20. A lovely hotel close to the middle of town. Whilst I was pottering Malcolm organised a guide for the afternoon¨. Pamela arrived at 14:00 and took us for a drive through the city to see the old and the new. Our brief for the guides is always show us the real people and how they live and not the touristy stuff that everyone else goes to! Our first stop was at a local country market where only the locals go. It was amazingly clean although by Australian standards it wouldn´t pass. The people who are mostly Inca backgound are truly poor but they make a real effort and the good thing is that you don´t see beggars on the streets here, everyone works or starves. Next to the oldest part of town with narrow little climbing, winding streets. Most of the buildings here are on top of Inca stone foundations. Near the church in this section are also some art shops who produce work in the style of the 17th century, so in order to help the local economy and support the painters I purchased a couple. We visited the historical church of San Blas purported to have the most beautiful pulpit in the world and carved from local cedar by local Indian Inca craftsmen. Many of the paintings in the church were undertaken by an Inca artist who was converted to Chritianity. Walked the narrow streets by evening street lighting, visiting a tiny little shop selling souvenirs. The little girl running the shop couldn´t have been older then 8 or 9 years and lived there with her mother behind a curtain. We didn´t buy anything but gave her two dollars US which is a lot for the poor. Arrived back at the hotel at 19:00 and had dinner at the hotel which cost us US$135 which included a tip. The wine cost $40 for a bottle of Chilean Merlow. Wine is expensive here because only the rich people drink it. We were both tired because of travell and the altitude of above ten thousand feet.
Photos to follow.
Saturday 11 February 12 Lima
Up at 06:30 followed by a good breakfast at the hotel. Our guide Mrs Nieves and driver Hernan collected us at 09:20 and we negotiated a deal whereby they would take us around for the whole day instead of only the morning. First a visit to a small local fish and fruit market where we met the local people and then tasted the fresh produce. The Peruvians are really lovely people and very friendly. there is a real gentle kindness about them. this vist was followed by a stop at the central city markets which are huge, crowded and full of colour and local produce and goods. The local certainly display the Spanish flair for noise and drama. I know that the travel guides all say be carefull but we never had any feelings of danger and were comfortable walking amongst the locals with our guide who is university qualified in ancient history and very knowledgeable.. Next stop to see the changing of the guard at the presidential palace. The ceremony is very colourful and I would guess based on the American style of things. The band and outgoing guard were navy and indistinguishable from our uniforms. Opposite the palace is the cathedral which was build on the orders of Pizarro , the founder of Lima, in 1551. everywhere there is gold, carvings and massive religious paintings. Our guide then took us to the Convent of Santo Domingo which had at one time been a unviversity and was the second oldest university in South America. As part of our visit we climbed the bell tower from where I took some good photos. Lima is big and poverty is wide spread, but for all that the people appera content. The traffic is something else here and makes traffic in Rome seem like a childrens playground. I spoke to a local who doesn,t have a licence and wouldn´t drine in Lima. As we were descending from the tower my guide dared me to ring the massive bell which is about 2 meters across - so I did and Lima was given a nice bell chorus at some strange time in the afternoon. Being tourists Nieves also took us to see the Iglesia San Francisco church which is being restored and has many beautiful art works by Ruben and his school of painters. After a good one hour tour we drove through town to the museum which has a magnificent collection of Inca and pre-Inca culture artifacts. As we also had a lovely lunch here there was really insufficient time to see the complete collection. There was however time to see the adult collection of Inca pottery and I can tell you that there is not much that the the Incas didn´t try as they were a ¨horny bunch¨ and included their nocturnal activities in great detail in their pottery.
Photos to follow
Up at 06:30 followed by a good breakfast at the hotel. Our guide Mrs Nieves and driver Hernan collected us at 09:20 and we negotiated a deal whereby they would take us around for the whole day instead of only the morning. First a visit to a small local fish and fruit market where we met the local people and then tasted the fresh produce. The Peruvians are really lovely people and very friendly. there is a real gentle kindness about them. this vist was followed by a stop at the central city markets which are huge, crowded and full of colour and local produce and goods. The local certainly display the Spanish flair for noise and drama. I know that the travel guides all say be carefull but we never had any feelings of danger and were comfortable walking amongst the locals with our guide who is university qualified in ancient history and very knowledgeable.. Next stop to see the changing of the guard at the presidential palace. The ceremony is very colourful and I would guess based on the American style of things. The band and outgoing guard were navy and indistinguishable from our uniforms. Opposite the palace is the cathedral which was build on the orders of Pizarro , the founder of Lima, in 1551. everywhere there is gold, carvings and massive religious paintings. Our guide then took us to the Convent of Santo Domingo which had at one time been a unviversity and was the second oldest university in South America. As part of our visit we climbed the bell tower from where I took some good photos. Lima is big and poverty is wide spread, but for all that the people appera content. The traffic is something else here and makes traffic in Rome seem like a childrens playground. I spoke to a local who doesn,t have a licence and wouldn´t drine in Lima. As we were descending from the tower my guide dared me to ring the massive bell which is about 2 meters across - so I did and Lima was given a nice bell chorus at some strange time in the afternoon. Being tourists Nieves also took us to see the Iglesia San Francisco church which is being restored and has many beautiful art works by Ruben and his school of painters. After a good one hour tour we drove through town to the museum which has a magnificent collection of Inca and pre-Inca culture artifacts. As we also had a lovely lunch here there was really insufficient time to see the complete collection. There was however time to see the adult collection of Inca pottery and I can tell you that there is not much that the the Incas didn´t try as they were a ¨horny bunch¨ and included their nocturnal activities in great detail in their pottery.
Photos to follow
Saturday 18 February 2012
Monday 6 Feb 2012 Return to the UK
No more sleeping in today, out of bed at 05:45 to a quick shave and breakfast so that Andreas could drive me to Cologne Central railway station to catch the 08:41 express train to Brussels. We had enough time for a nice breakfast at home but nobody had much appetite today. Having been together for a week of travelling and then parting company again was like saying goodbye after our Camino pilgrimage walk in 2010. Andreas stayed on the station platform until the train left and he was feeling the cold as it was quite bitter outside, probably about minus eight degrees. On the train I had a single seat which was good. As part of the service we were served a continental breakfast and the two hours to Brussels past quickly whilst reading the Ben Kane book "Hannibal". Along the way the snow layer increased as we neared the coast, both sides of the channel had a good deep coverage. In Brussels I bought a new Casio watch for €45. The funny thing was that the women in the shop claimed not to understand Dutch, German or English and only spoke French, yet they are the four languages spoken on most of the trains entering Brussels! French!!!! My train departure from Brussels on the Eurostar was spot on time and two hours later I arrived at St Pancras station, London, from whence I took a taxi to Waterloo station. At Waterloo I purchased a ticket for Petersfield and had 4 minutes to catch that connection arriving an hour later in Petersfield. Malcolm came to collect me and we drove back to Pipers Hill in Eastwood where we stayed with Brian and Fiona, close friends of Malcolm and Lindy.
Tuesday 7 Feb 2012 Admin and Relaxation
Wednesday 8 Feb 2012 Visiting Petersfield and Buster Ancient Farm
Today Malcolm took me into the little town of Petersfield for a look and coffee before heading to the Butser Ancient Farm, which is celebrating it's 40th anniversary. This farm is a reconstruction of ancient Iron Age and Roman Britain buildings. The Roman building is constructed out of stone, and wattle and daub. The weather was bitter and we didn't linger too long as the wind cut through coats and light snow was falling, this however did not seem to bother the school children who were there learning about Roman mosaics. The farm has been the basis for studying ancient farming techniques and also breeds various ancient animal types such as some pig varities which have almost disappeared. On the way home we stopped at the local butcher in Waterlooville, who when he heard that we were travelling the world asked if we could photograph his red customer bag with his details on it in various parts of the world. He already had photos of an Aussie in the outback and at HMAS Cerberus with his back. All the photos are going on the wall to show that his meat is known the world over. A great marketing technique. From Waterlooville I also posted a 4kg parcel home which cost 81 pounds or $128. A similar parcel from Holland cost 32 Euro. Someone in the British post office is making money out of this. Tonight the final pack for tomorrows departure to London where we are staying with Malcolm's brother.
Thursday 9 Feb 2012 Drive to London
Pretty relaxed morning at home and departed at at 1230. The trip was fast due to light traffic on the M25. By the time that we arrived there was a lot of snow on the ground and more falling. For an easy dinner we visited a local carvery where for 5.95 pounds we had a fabulous meal and an early night as we had a very early start the next day. Weather predictions were 8 inches snow overnight.
Friday 10 Feb 2012 Heathrow, Miami and Lima
I was up at 5 AM and saw Graham (Malcolm´s brother) outside shovelling away snow and clearing the car for departure. I still had time to check my emails and found some new travel instructions for the Lima part of the tour. Our departure was slow as we had some minor problems backing the car out up an icy driveway with the three of us and our baggage but eventual we did get underway and took it slowly until reaching the M25 which was clear of ice and snow and traffic flowing freely. Arrived at Heathrow at 6.30, checked in baggage and all went well until we arrived at the British Airways lounge who did not want to recognise the reciprecal Qantas lounge entitlements. I had long winded arguement with the supervisor before we were allowed in. At 9 we made our way via the internal rail service to terminal B11 and boarded our flight. I found the seats on BA crampted and after 11 hours flying was glad of the opportunity to stretch. In Miami we were met by an American Airways representative and rushed through to our AA flight to Lima, Peru. Why anybody would fly American Airlines is beyond me. The aircraft boarding was like primary kids at the playground and the mostly male aircrew were similar to the World Championship Wrestling team. The "healthy" food we were served consisted of some fairly stale and dry bread, a packed of oversalted chips and a can of soft drink. Everything about this airline is unprofessional and in my mind they should not even be in business. I would hate to see them in an emergency. In Lima we were met by our guide Eva and driver Herman. In case you are wondering on our travels throughout South America we have private tour guides and drivers for just Malc and me. It is the only way to travel and at least we don't have to put with unpleasant travelling companions. On arrival at Lima I was stunned by the number of people at the airport at 11 at night. There are 9 million people in Lima and I recon they were all at the airport. We were taken to our hotel, the Casa private Collection Miraflores and found that they had given us a double bed because Malcolm's name on the documentation said Rose. We fixed the bed problems quickly but ran into this again later on.
Photo's will be posted later when facilities permit.
No more sleeping in today, out of bed at 05:45 to a quick shave and breakfast so that Andreas could drive me to Cologne Central railway station to catch the 08:41 express train to Brussels. We had enough time for a nice breakfast at home but nobody had much appetite today. Having been together for a week of travelling and then parting company again was like saying goodbye after our Camino pilgrimage walk in 2010. Andreas stayed on the station platform until the train left and he was feeling the cold as it was quite bitter outside, probably about minus eight degrees. On the train I had a single seat which was good. As part of the service we were served a continental breakfast and the two hours to Brussels past quickly whilst reading the Ben Kane book "Hannibal". Along the way the snow layer increased as we neared the coast, both sides of the channel had a good deep coverage. In Brussels I bought a new Casio watch for €45. The funny thing was that the women in the shop claimed not to understand Dutch, German or English and only spoke French, yet they are the four languages spoken on most of the trains entering Brussels! French!!!! My train departure from Brussels on the Eurostar was spot on time and two hours later I arrived at St Pancras station, London, from whence I took a taxi to Waterloo station. At Waterloo I purchased a ticket for Petersfield and had 4 minutes to catch that connection arriving an hour later in Petersfield. Malcolm came to collect me and we drove back to Pipers Hill in Eastwood where we stayed with Brian and Fiona, close friends of Malcolm and Lindy.
Tuesday 7 Feb 2012 Admin and Relaxation
Wednesday 8 Feb 2012 Visiting Petersfield and Buster Ancient Farm
Today Malcolm took me into the little town of Petersfield for a look and coffee before heading to the Butser Ancient Farm, which is celebrating it's 40th anniversary. This farm is a reconstruction of ancient Iron Age and Roman Britain buildings. The Roman building is constructed out of stone, and wattle and daub. The weather was bitter and we didn't linger too long as the wind cut through coats and light snow was falling, this however did not seem to bother the school children who were there learning about Roman mosaics. The farm has been the basis for studying ancient farming techniques and also breeds various ancient animal types such as some pig varities which have almost disappeared. On the way home we stopped at the local butcher in Waterlooville, who when he heard that we were travelling the world asked if we could photograph his red customer bag with his details on it in various parts of the world. He already had photos of an Aussie in the outback and at HMAS Cerberus with his back. All the photos are going on the wall to show that his meat is known the world over. A great marketing technique. From Waterlooville I also posted a 4kg parcel home which cost 81 pounds or $128. A similar parcel from Holland cost 32 Euro. Someone in the British post office is making money out of this. Tonight the final pack for tomorrows departure to London where we are staying with Malcolm's brother.
Thursday 9 Feb 2012 Drive to London
Pretty relaxed morning at home and departed at at 1230. The trip was fast due to light traffic on the M25. By the time that we arrived there was a lot of snow on the ground and more falling. For an easy dinner we visited a local carvery where for 5.95 pounds we had a fabulous meal and an early night as we had a very early start the next day. Weather predictions were 8 inches snow overnight.
Friday 10 Feb 2012 Heathrow, Miami and Lima
I was up at 5 AM and saw Graham (Malcolm´s brother) outside shovelling away snow and clearing the car for departure. I still had time to check my emails and found some new travel instructions for the Lima part of the tour. Our departure was slow as we had some minor problems backing the car out up an icy driveway with the three of us and our baggage but eventual we did get underway and took it slowly until reaching the M25 which was clear of ice and snow and traffic flowing freely. Arrived at Heathrow at 6.30, checked in baggage and all went well until we arrived at the British Airways lounge who did not want to recognise the reciprecal Qantas lounge entitlements. I had long winded arguement with the supervisor before we were allowed in. At 9 we made our way via the internal rail service to terminal B11 and boarded our flight. I found the seats on BA crampted and after 11 hours flying was glad of the opportunity to stretch. In Miami we were met by an American Airways representative and rushed through to our AA flight to Lima, Peru. Why anybody would fly American Airlines is beyond me. The aircraft boarding was like primary kids at the playground and the mostly male aircrew were similar to the World Championship Wrestling team. The "healthy" food we were served consisted of some fairly stale and dry bread, a packed of oversalted chips and a can of soft drink. Everything about this airline is unprofessional and in my mind they should not even be in business. I would hate to see them in an emergency. In Lima we were met by our guide Eva and driver Herman. In case you are wondering on our travels throughout South America we have private tour guides and drivers for just Malc and me. It is the only way to travel and at least we don't have to put with unpleasant travelling companions. On arrival at Lima I was stunned by the number of people at the airport at 11 at night. There are 9 million people in Lima and I recon they were all at the airport. We were taken to our hotel, the Casa private Collection Miraflores and found that they had given us a double bed because Malcolm's name on the documentation said Rose. We fixed the bed problems quickly but ran into this again later on.
Photo's will be posted later when facilities permit.
Monday 6 February 2012
Sunday 5 Feb 12 Return to Leverkusen for the last night
A slow start as there was no great rush to do anything. Martin wa staking me to the railway station to catch the Inter City Express (ICE) at 13:51. Today it was only a 2 hour rail trip via Frankfurt and Bonn. The countryside today was not as spectacular as that along the Rhine. Before leaving Martin produced a bottle of Oruja liqeur, the Camino drink, of which we had a rushed glass before leaving by bus for the station.
At the station in Cologne Andreas and Briggite are waiting for me.
During my absence Andreas and Brigitte have gone out and purchased a book on the Camino for me in German so that I can read and improve my German vocabulary as well as a German teddy bear.
There's always time to play on the computer, even with Briggites feet in the middle.
A slow start as there was no great rush to do anything. Martin wa staking me to the railway station to catch the Inter City Express (ICE) at 13:51. Today it was only a 2 hour rail trip via Frankfurt and Bonn. The countryside today was not as spectacular as that along the Rhine. Before leaving Martin produced a bottle of Oruja liqeur, the Camino drink, of which we had a rushed glass before leaving by bus for the station.
For the Camino Memories and good friends
Martin waiting to share a toast.
At the station in Cologne Andreas and Briggite are waiting for me.
During my absence Andreas and Brigitte have gone out and purchased a book on the Camino for me in German so that I can read and improve my German vocabulary as well as a German teddy bear.
The Last Supper
There's always time to play on the computer, even with Briggites feet in the middle.
Saturday 4 Feb 12 Stuttgart and Mercedes Museum
Out of bed at 08:30 to a hot coffee and muesli breakfast. Life at Martin's is uncomplicated and straight forward, coffee and plenty of walking. We were on the way by 10:00 to visit the Mercedes Museum, this was something that I had missed out on during my previous visit in May 2010.
Today was another cold day with the temperature not getting much over -5C during the day. The museum is a modern building designed by a Dutch architect. The motor vehicle timeline start up on the top floor with the very first 1 horse power engines and then develops to the first basic pioneer cars and motor vehicle inventions. Walking the circular path down through the different levels you also follow the development of Mercedes (Benz) and Daimler until the companies combine to combat a failing motor industry.
This museum deserves more time then I was able to give it.
On the way home Martin took me to the Stuttgart railway station which is due to be pulled down and be replaced and the 100 year old trees which are planned to be removed in the adjoining park. Protestors have set up camp and some are purched high up in trees - it most be bloody cold up there during the night or when the wind is blowing, still I tend to agree with them about the destruction of old trees.
That evening we met with Diana, Martin's friend, and had a Swabian meal of 'maultasche' in the 'Kochenbas' restaurant.
Another great day with a good friend.
Out of bed at 08:30 to a hot coffee and muesli breakfast. Life at Martin's is uncomplicated and straight forward, coffee and plenty of walking. We were on the way by 10:00 to visit the Mercedes Museum, this was something that I had missed out on during my previous visit in May 2010.
Today was another cold day with the temperature not getting much over -5C during the day. The museum is a modern building designed by a Dutch architect. The motor vehicle timeline start up on the top floor with the very first 1 horse power engines and then develops to the first basic pioneer cars and motor vehicle inventions. Walking the circular path down through the different levels you also follow the development of Mercedes (Benz) and Daimler until the companies combine to combat a failing motor industry.
Martin enjoying the fresh cool air
The First
Love the Colour
The Kaisers Transport
The Gull Wing
Beautiful Engineering
This museum deserves more time then I was able to give it.
On the way home Martin took me to the Stuttgart railway station which is due to be pulled down and be replaced and the 100 year old trees which are planned to be removed in the adjoining park. Protestors have set up camp and some are purched high up in trees - it most be bloody cold up there during the night or when the wind is blowing, still I tend to agree with them about the destruction of old trees.
If you look in the tree on the right you'll see a protestor living up there!
All that will remain of the 100 year old station is the tower.
That evening we met with Diana, Martin's friend, and had a Swabian meal of 'maultasche' in the 'Kochenbas' restaurant.
Another great day with a good friend.
Friday 3 Feb 12 Leaving for Stuttgart
Today was a slow and lazy start, having to do some quick cleaning and prepartion for the trip to Stuttgart. Last night was another cracking minus about -13 to - 15C. The news forecasts are predicting extreme cold weather conditions. One report announced that 800km of roads were closed in Holland due to the extreme weather. I also need to keep an eye on the rail through Brussels in case their are ice problems.
I have been fortunate to have had the ongoing use of my almost own computer for a week and consequently heaps of time to do administration and blogs.
At 15:00 Andreas and Brigitte took me to the Cologne railway station for the Inter Ciry (IC) train to Stuttgart.
The train departed at 17:18 on time as all trains do in Germany, not a minute late. Normally passengers are only given a couple of mintues to alight. I had hoped to see some of the countryside but by the time we were out of the city darkness had fallen. The train followed the Rhine River passing through Bonn, Linz, Koblenz, Heidelberg, Mannheim and Stuttgart but I saw nothing other then the reflection of snow in the moonlight.
Arriving at Stuttgart I found Martin waiting on the platform. A quick bus trip home and then a walk to the `Vischlabor` Bar for a cold beer. The outside temperature was definitely colder then the beer and walking without gloves or a warm hat was bittingly cold. Cheeks, ears and hands felt the cold sting within minutes of stepping out.
Today was a slow and lazy start, having to do some quick cleaning and prepartion for the trip to Stuttgart. Last night was another cracking minus about -13 to - 15C. The news forecasts are predicting extreme cold weather conditions. One report announced that 800km of roads were closed in Holland due to the extreme weather. I also need to keep an eye on the rail through Brussels in case their are ice problems.
Andreas setting up his new computer
Wal doing his diary and Blog
I have been fortunate to have had the ongoing use of my almost own computer for a week and consequently heaps of time to do administration and blogs.
Lunch with Andreas and Brigitte before leaving
At 15:00 Andreas and Brigitte took me to the Cologne railway station for the Inter Ciry (IC) train to Stuttgart.
Leaving for the weekend.
A couple of Muppets on the railway station
The train departed at 17:18 on time as all trains do in Germany, not a minute late. Normally passengers are only given a couple of mintues to alight. I had hoped to see some of the countryside but by the time we were out of the city darkness had fallen. The train followed the Rhine River passing through Bonn, Linz, Koblenz, Heidelberg, Mannheim and Stuttgart but I saw nothing other then the reflection of snow in the moonlight.
Arriving at Stuttgart I found Martin waiting on the platform. A quick bus trip home and then a walk to the `Vischlabor` Bar for a cold beer. The outside temperature was definitely colder then the beer and walking without gloves or a warm hat was bittingly cold. Cheeks, ears and hands felt the cold sting within minutes of stepping out.
Saturday 4 February 2012
Thursday 2 Feb 12 Visit to Zons
Another brisk morning of minus 10C to wake up to. There is not much frost because there is so little moisture but the weather conditions in Russia suggest that a cold and snowy snap is on the way. An easy day pottering about. After lunch we drove out to a little 14th century village of Zons which is the only village in Germany retaing it's entire city wall and all towers. Zons was founded by the arch bishop of Cologne and served as a customs clearance station on the Rhine. Zons is only half an hour from Leverkusen and provided a relaxed drive through light traffic and farmlands.
Arriving at Zons we were surprised to find that this town is on the historic German Pilgrams route which leads to Santiago in Spain.
The weather was quite cold again so we did not linger but took a fast walk around the town until we found an open cafe serving coffee. Most of the facilities are closed as there are few tourists to justify keeping the shops and historical sights open. The great pity was that in the church there is a sign to say that it was closed to the public due to vandalism.
Another brisk morning of minus 10C to wake up to. There is not much frost because there is so little moisture but the weather conditions in Russia suggest that a cold and snowy snap is on the way. An easy day pottering about. After lunch we drove out to a little 14th century village of Zons which is the only village in Germany retaing it's entire city wall and all towers. Zons was founded by the arch bishop of Cologne and served as a customs clearance station on the Rhine. Zons is only half an hour from Leverkusen and provided a relaxed drive through light traffic and farmlands.
Arriving at Zons we were surprised to find that this town is on the historic German Pilgrams route which leads to Santiago in Spain.
Typical Pilgrims Route Marker
The weather was quite cold again so we did not linger but took a fast walk around the town until we found an open cafe serving coffee. Most of the facilities are closed as there are few tourists to justify keeping the shops and historical sights open. The great pity was that in the church there is a sign to say that it was closed to the public due to vandalism.
City Gate
Church Doors
Trying to keep Andreas head warm in front of one of a city wall tower
The Countryside in this area is rural and very pleasant however the blue sky could be misleading as the water in the picture is solid ice.
On leaving Zons Andreas and Brigitte proposed a rural route that took us across the Rhine on a ferry and wound it's way back through small villages and rural and light forrest lands.
Ferry and barge traffic on the Rhine is busy with many starting in Holland and working their way along through Germany and into Austria, Switzerland and beyond
On our way home Andreas took me into the city centre of Leverkusen which sports a large football oval and is the site of many major games played in this locality. The British soccer teams are banned from bringing supporters along when they play here due to the bad behaviour. During the evening we entertained neighbours Dominik and Sylvia who are a like minded outgoing and adventurous couple.
Tomorrow I travel to Stuttgart for 2 days to catch up with Martin from the Camino.Thursday 2 February 2012
Wednesday 1 Feb 12 - `Krimidinner` (Who committed the murder?)
Today was much slower and time to undertake some administration, emails and diary updates. Not that anyone was rushing outside as the morning temperature was -10.6C which in any language is a little brisk. When we arrived home just after midnight from our Who Commited the Murder dinner the temperature was already down to -9C again. I am adjusting nicely and adding selected items from the outdoor shops to my clothing list.
Not only are Andreas and Brigitte great company and good hosts, Brigitte does my washing and Andreas my ironing to ensure that I am reasonably well presented to go out to dinner. At about 3:00pm we left for Köln (Cologne) for a beer and to wander around the shops before going to the Who Commited the Murder dinner at the Wolkenburg theatre restaurant.
But first coffee at the Italian cafe Galestro which brings a little bit of Italy to Germany and then a nice cold beer or two at the well known bar Gaffel Kölsch to fortify us for further shopping.
As always we seem to end up in the Globetrotter shop (www.globetrotter.de) which provides 4 levels of crazy shopping for the outdoor enthusiast.
At 6:30PM we walked to the Wolkenburg theatre restaurant for a fun evening. I must admit that my German was not good enough to understand everything but I did catch the gist of the play and prayed that I would not be called out the front to perform some part. By the way the butler who was murdered was called 'Wally'. That proves that there are Wally's the world over!
And to finish the day we watched some photos from Liesl's wedding and Australia, going to bed at 2:00AM.
Today was much slower and time to undertake some administration, emails and diary updates. Not that anyone was rushing outside as the morning temperature was -10.6C which in any language is a little brisk. When we arrived home just after midnight from our Who Commited the Murder dinner the temperature was already down to -9C again. I am adjusting nicely and adding selected items from the outdoor shops to my clothing list.
Andreas helping with the Blog and photos
That's me trying to get dressed with Andreas help!
Not only are Andreas and Brigitte great company and good hosts, Brigitte does my washing and Andreas my ironing to ensure that I am reasonably well presented to go out to dinner. At about 3:00pm we left for Köln (Cologne) for a beer and to wander around the shops before going to the Who Commited the Murder dinner at the Wolkenburg theatre restaurant.
But first coffee at the Italian cafe Galestro which brings a little bit of Italy to Germany and then a nice cold beer or two at the well known bar Gaffel Kölsch to fortify us for further shopping.
As always we seem to end up in the Globetrotter shop (www.globetrotter.de) which provides 4 levels of crazy shopping for the outdoor enthusiast.
Indoor pool for testing small boats and kayaks
Besides the indoor pool there is a cold room with ice blocks where the temperature can be set to any level for testing cold weather clothing and also a shower area where wind and weather conditions can be set to test your wet weather clothing prior to purchase. I was good and bought the last balaclava in the shop at a greatly reduced price as the end of winter sales are on. Temperatures are dropping rapidly as you can see on the news but winter clearance sales are on and I had to stop myself time and again from adding to the local economy.
At 6:30PM we walked to the Wolkenburg theatre restaurant for a fun evening. I must admit that my German was not good enough to understand everything but I did catch the gist of the play and prayed that I would not be called out the front to perform some part. By the way the butler who was murdered was called 'Wally'. That proves that there are Wally's the world over!
Main entrance to the Wolkenburg theatre restaurant
Andreas as one of the Hunters
Heading to the railway station to go home at midnight
And to finish the day we watched some photos from Liesl's wedding and Australia, going to bed at 2:00AM.
Andreas sucking in his stomach as we're all putting on kg's
Tuesday 31 Jan 12
Todays lesson is `when in Germany do as the Germans do`. Now I know why they all put on a scarf and wear gloves, because it's darn bitter outside (bloody cold).
An earlier start today, well 10:00 which is early on holidays, as there was a 205km trip road to Trier. About 60km out of Leverkusen we came across the first snow which was not expected but welcome as I didn't believe winter had come to Europe.
Trier is Germany's oldest city and contains the best preserved Roman ruins and has 8 UNESCO declared world heritage sites and once was the seat of Roman emperors. It contains buildings surpased in size and magnificence only by Rome. Based in the Mosel valley it is also a premier wine growing region.
First stop on arrival was for coffee opposite the Porta Nigra city gate or `Black Gate` which is the largest surviving Roman gate worldwide. The name dates from 1060 when the gate was turned into a double church, St Simeon, and named after the Greek hermit who lived walled up inside (1028 - 1035)
.JPG)
The top storey of the gate provides magnificent views over the surrounding country side and city of Trier.
Next Brigitte and Andreas bought a city map so that we had some sort of plan as to what to see because everything is interesting, beautiful or old and the time was limited to a couple of hours. However the next stop was a to buy a warm scarf.
The city centres of Trier has many wonderous places of interest:
Traffic in the city centre is very light due to small modern cars.
There were also some famouse people who come from Trier such as Karl Marx and Constantine the first Holy Roman emperor who spend much time here and was responsible for building the Roman throne hall, the Constantine Basillica in 310AD, which is still in use today after 1300 years as a church.
But wait there is more to see before going home, the Frauenkirche (Church of our Lady) and the Cathedral.
St Peters was build during the time of Constantine in 336AD, raised by the Vikings and then rebuild, the roof later collapsed during and earthquake but was rebuild and over the centuries added to to. Within some of the collumns are still sections of the Roman temple of Saturn and statues. This building is also listed by UNESCO.
And to finish a long day I went to English classes with Andreas.
Todays lesson is `when in Germany do as the Germans do`. Now I know why they all put on a scarf and wear gloves, because it's darn bitter outside (bloody cold).
An earlier start today, well 10:00 which is early on holidays, as there was a 205km trip road to Trier. About 60km out of Leverkusen we came across the first snow which was not expected but welcome as I didn't believe winter had come to Europe.
Trier is Germany's oldest city and contains the best preserved Roman ruins and has 8 UNESCO declared world heritage sites and once was the seat of Roman emperors. It contains buildings surpased in size and magnificence only by Rome. Based in the Mosel valley it is also a premier wine growing region.
First stop on arrival was for coffee opposite the Porta Nigra city gate or `Black Gate` which is the largest surviving Roman gate worldwide. The name dates from 1060 when the gate was turned into a double church, St Simeon, and named after the Greek hermit who lived walled up inside (1028 - 1035)
.JPG)
Porta Nigra and interior views
The top storey of the gate provides magnificent views over the surrounding country side and city of Trier.
Next Brigitte and Andreas bought a city map so that we had some sort of plan as to what to see because everything is interesting, beautiful or old and the time was limited to a couple of hours. However the next stop was a to buy a warm scarf.
Wow that's nice and warm
The city centres of Trier has many wonderous places of interest:
The medieval market and cross from 958AD
Traffic in the city centre is very light due to small modern cars.
There were also some famouse people who come from Trier such as Karl Marx and Constantine the first Holy Roman emperor who spend much time here and was responsible for building the Roman throne hall, the Constantine Basillica in 310AD, which is still in use today after 1300 years as a church.
Constantine Basillica 310AD
There was also a visit to the Roman bridge but at the end of the day all bridges look the same so I wont show you any photos. After the basillica there is a beautiful view of the Electoral palace which is attached to the back of the basillica.
But wait there is more to see before going home, the Frauenkirche (Church of our Lady) and the Cathedral.
Frauenkirche (Church of our Lady)
Computer writing the bible with a fountain pen
St Peters Cathedral from 336AD
St Peters was build during the time of Constantine in 336AD, raised by the Vikings and then rebuild, the roof later collapsed during and earthquake but was rebuild and over the centuries added to to. Within some of the collumns are still sections of the Roman temple of Saturn and statues. This building is also listed by UNESCO.
And to finish a long day I went to English classes with Andreas.
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