Camino 2013 - Day 7 - 30 November 2013

30NOV13

After a good night's sleep departed the albergue at 08:30 under a grey sky and mild temperatures.   2km outside Najera this changed to cold rain.   It was a bleak day.   In Azofra put on the poncho for the rest of the day.   Imagine waling with a 13kg backpack, poncho, clinging mud for 10km, a headwind with driving rain in your face and fingers, cheeks and nose frozen, well that was my day for most of 27km.   To finish it off we had a hail storm outside Granon where we are tonight.   The albergue is in part of the ancient church and for the 8 pilgrims there was a special mass and evening meal provided.   We are now all sitting around an open fire.   It has been a tough day with a beautiful ending.   The feet are tired and sore and there is still hard walking to do.

Camino 2013 - Day 6 - 29 November 2013

29NOV13

Left Logrono with a cold 3C which never warmed up during the day and a grey heavy sky threatening snow, the wind has also returned with a cutting edge.   The countryside although similar to yesterday is bleak and other than the vineyards where I took some bunches of grapes thee was little to get excited about.   We stopped for morning coffee in Navarette and a pasta lunch, the only thing on the menu, in Ventosa.   Arrived at Najera at 16:30.   Had a lovely meal of roast ribs tonight.   Feeling pretty tired after the 32km walk, the cold drains all energy and the feet are also telling me they didn't enjoy today, much of which was walking on broken stones.   Weather change to unsettled conditions coming soon.

Camino 2013 - Day 5 - 28 November 2013

28NOV13

A good 31km walk to Logrono today.   Beautiful clear sky without a cloud, no wind and 3cm of ice on the puddles.   Snow is forecast but not for the next day.   The walk was fast with our first tea and apple shop at Torres del Rio where we had a lovely few minutes sitting in the sun.   Our next break, for lunch, was 13km further in Viano.   By the time we arrived at Logrono albergue the feet were sore and ready for a hot shower.   Tonight there are only 5 of us in the room, the heating broken and we have a couple of blow fan heaters going.   Night temperatures down to -4C.   Tomorrow another big hilly 31km day.   The countryside is loverly here and it is hard to imagine that winter is coming.

Camino 2013 - Day 3 & 4 - 26-27 November 2013

27NOV13

Today I celebrated my birthday, first with messages from home, then a card from Ilka (Camino 2010 friend) and with chocolate from Martin.   Tonight in Los Arcos in the albergue they sang Happy Birthday and then after the pilgrims mass in the church it was dinner out.   The day's walk was demanding but the sky was crystal clear blue and the countryside magnificent, however the cold winds prevail as we come closer to the snow covered mountains.   There was no open bar or place to eat in the 23km today so lunch consisted of an apple and some cold water.   Spain is an interesting country, we see almost no people and although the houses in the villages are all occupied.   Life in the Camino consists of early rise and rush for the bathroom, then getting dressed in the dark, putting the sleeping bag away and preparing the pack for the day.   Yesterday we had 2 showers, 2 wash basins and 2 toilets for 18 people.   The showers are unisex and all you have is a shower curtain and no place to dry yourself or put things, this is a real leveller where no one has privacy.   I hope that the body is adjusting to these new physical demands because tomorrow is our first 30km day to Logrono.

Camino 2013 - Day 2 - 25 November 2013

Day 2 and 22km to Estella, this doesn't seem like much but with a 13kg pack, biting cold winds and steep hills it's a challenge.   On our second day the muscles are sore and the body doesn't know what's hit it.   I'm losing weight and daily tighten the belt more.   Although today wasn't far it seemed much further and made slow progress up and down the hills.   In Spain most towns are situated on hills, a defensive position from the Middle Ages which also makes it hard going for pilgrims.   After 4 hours walking and no open bars, lunch consisted of an apple and small cake each eaten outside in relative shelter.   Arrived at Estella by 15:00 thoroughly burned out and sore.   It's a good life!   The surrounding mountains have reasonable snow coverage on the peaks.   The bread and cakes in Spain are to die for.   Saw a policeman walking around town shooting pigeons in the street with an air rifle.

Camino 2013 - Day 1 - 25 November 2013

After the disaster with QANTAS and having to forego 3 days of walking of the Pyrenees, Martin and I left Pomplona in bitter temperatures with high biting winds.   I wore a thermal shirt, shirt, fleece and gortex jacket, beanie and gloves.   The first 4 hours and 20km was a tough bitter walk up hill and all shops closed until reaching Murzabul for lunch.   We decided to walk an extra 3km to Eunate, Knights Templar chapel but being Monday was closed.   After a 29km walk in tough conditions for the first day arrived at Puenta la Reina.   All up about 10 pilgrims staying here.   Mountains along way covered in snow.