Camino 2013 - Day 21 - 14 December 2013

There are now only 8 pilgrims of whom 5 are new starters. Breakfast was jamon, cheese and tomato and on the road at 08:00 but in a local bar for hot coffee 5 minutes later. This morning there was a perfectly clear sky, not a breath of wind and the cold a -6C was sharp as a knifes edge, going through everything. This is the first day I thought of wearing my buff scarf over my face. Let me tell you about cold: there is cold, very cold, biter cold, penetrating cold so that your fingers are blue inside the gloves, rain cold, frosty cold, windy cold, hail cold, snow cold, extreme cold, cold showers, cold bathrooms, cold albergue, cold cathedrals and museums; so if you don't like the cold don't walk the Camino in winter because I have had them all. Currently the 2 ladies are the only women on the Camino and we 3 are all that remains of the original group. The walk from Astorga through Murias de Rechivaldo and then Santa Catalina de Somoza was a joy in beautiful peaceful bush and heath. Strangely the weather is like spring and by mid morning the layers of clothing came off. Unlike May 2010 when the mountains were covered in snow there is not a flake to be seen. After an orange and water stop in Santa Catalina we walked on to Rabanal to the albergue Nuestra Seniora del Pilar which has a farm house feel about it and the lady who runs the place is very motherly. Tonight we have a home cooked meal for €2. She also washed and dried all our clothing for us for €4. Mass at one of the ancient churches before dinner. Only two Italians and one German pilgrim besides us. I'm writing this message from the kitchen in front of a log fire. Tomorrow the highest point, Cruz de Ferro at 1505 meters and a 30km walk.