Camino 2013 - Day 31 - 24 December 2013

Another day of firsts. Yesterday parts of Europe including Spain were on red alert for extreme weather conditions. During the night cyclonic winds and rain hit us, so we put off our departure from Monte Gozo until 09:00 and then stepped out into bucketing rain and wind gusts that blew us of the footpath. Strangely there were few people on the road and the couple of motorists who passed us must have thought us crazy and hooted their horns. The 5km walk took longer then expected and we arrived at the pilgrims office looking like drowned rats. An hour later we attended the pilgrims mass in the cathedral where it was read out that Jennifer from Germany, Kristina and Lilli from Slovenia, and myself from Australia were the only pilgrims whom arrived on Christmas Eve. I'm booked in for the special hotel Parador dinner tonight, then at 22:30 the ladies and I are having drinks and exchanging gifts and at midnight the Christmas mass in the cathedral.

To all my family and good friends who have followed my daily wanderings and tribulations, a Very Happy and Blessed Christmas, you are in my thoughts at this special time. Signing off from Santiago cathedral  in northern wintery Spain, pilgrim Wal :-)

Camino 2013 - Day 30 - 23 December 2013

After a very nice breakfast in Salceda where once again it was only the 4 of us in a room we set of in the rain for Monte Gozo just 4km outside Santiago. First it was along a main road but then back on the pilgrims trail through oak forest on winding trails. The uphill and downhill just never stopped and I am starting to feel that my energy reserves have been used up. The weather was not kind today and has been overcast with occasional showers and is now blowing an absolute gale! With Christmas only two days away there is not a bar or restaurant open. When we arrived at the Monte Gozo albergue we were the only 4 booked into accommodation for 400. Because everything is closed the hospitalero drove us into town to the supermarket to buy some food for dinner and breakfast. It was bedlam in Santiago with Christmas shopping and I was happy to back in the albergue. The final little walk tomorrow.

Camino 2013 - Day 29 - 22 December 2013

Imagine last night 4 strangers sharing a room in a strange house with the door locked because the hospitalera has gone home, in a strange town with three houses, on a street that we didn't know in a foreign country. That was us in an ideal setting for a murder mystery movie. And then this morning imagine four pilgrims walking in the dark through an oak forest in the rain while all the Spanish locals were sitting in bed at home reading the Sunday newspaper and drinking a cup of coffee! Well that was us! Crazy pilgrims.

Today we walked 36km from Casanova to Salceda. The albergue we are in was used by Martin Sheen when making the Camino movie " the Way" We wanted to make headway before the rain came and decided not to stay in Arzua but do the extra 10km to Salceda. Most of the day was under cloudy skies and the first few hours in continuous rain. Coffee stops were far apart and lunch was in Castaneda just outside Arzua after a 4 hour walk. The country continuous to be lovely rolling hills and forest but that also meant we spend all day going up and down hills which is tiring with a backpack and my left shin is playing up badly again. Tomorrow night in in Monto Gozo which puts us 10km outside Santiago.

Camino 2013 - Day 28 - 21 December 2013

Today a 33km walk from Portomarin to Casanova. We decided not to stay in Palas de Rei and to try and get ahead before the rain comes again and with only 59km from Santiago we are trying to do extra distance the next two days so that we arrive early morning in Santiago on Christmas Eve. The weather has been kind and although the sky was dark grey all day there was not a drop of rain until arrival at our destination. The countryside is beautiful and even though there were 18km of uphill walking it was mainly on country roads or shady lanes under oak trees shedding their leaves. We have become used to long distances without open bars and once again today it was 18km until the first hot drink. In Palas de Rei they opened the church for us for a 10 minute quiet time, then we went to the supermarket to buy evening meal and breakfast as Casanova only has an albergue and 3 houses with no other facilities. The albergue was also specially opened for us and only the 3 ladies and I are staying here tonight.

Camino 2013 - Day 27 - 20 December 2013

When I left Australia I purchased quality items for snow conditions and am carrying an extra couple of kilos in weight. With the cancellation of my original flights I missed out walking the Pyrenees in snow, now today it is snowing in Burgos and O'Cebreiro and we are 2 days out and walking in brilliant sunshine. You just can't plan on weather and airplanes.

Left Sarria in light fog this morning but mild conditions. Once again in winter you can't assume anything and we walked 18km to Mercadoiro before finding the first open bar for hot coffee. Lunch consisted of shared apple, oranges and dried fruit plus the water we carried. The walk itself was a joy although there was a tense moment when we had to use the railway bridge on a blind corner because our wooden bridge outside Sarria was rotten, underwater and dangerous.

The country side is brilliant green rolling farmland and patches of oak forest, the sky emerald blue and the paths reasonably good and covered in the normal mud, cow manure and leaves. In places the road was dangerous where night moisture had frozen to glass like ice and every step had to be watched. The leg muscles are now getting tired and will be happy to finish the last 85km to Santiago.

The albergue in Portomarin is very modern and large and promises a good night sleep. Tonight at 19:00 we are going to Mass and then soup for dinner and bed. Kristina who is my daughters age is already planning for me to walk the 1000km Via de la Plata from Seville to Santiago with her. I've also got invites to Slovenia and Hamburg.

Camino 2013 - Day 26 - 19 December 2013

Today it was only 20km from Triacastela to Sarria. Today's lessons are that it rains almost all the time in Galicia and that most bars close at Christmas time. After leaving Triacastela we walked to the outskirts of Sarria before we had a hot drink and by 16:00 we still haven't eaten anything since breakfast. The weather today is similar to yesterday with continuous rain. We are all starting to smell like farmers, that nice aroma of manure and rain water through which we walk all day. The country side here is truly beautiful in its autumn browns and brilliant green fields and I have some lovely photos. The path was supposed to descend almost 500 meters down to Sarria but we seemed to slog uphill hour after hour and then all down hill again on broken slabs of slate covered in thick leaves, mud and water. By the time we arrived at Sarria we'd all had enough and within 2 hours all the other pilgrims had joined us and given away the idea of going on to Barbadello. And the rain continuous incessantly.

Camino 2013 - Day 25 - 18 December 2013

A very different day today and although we only walked 22km it was in extreme weather conditions and in the last 7km had a 700 meter descend. The morning started very very cold with a thick fog or perhaps low cloud on the mountain tops around O'Cebreiro. We thought the leaden skies might change to sun shine but no such luck, by mid morning the fog was replaced by bitter wind and the weather could not decide between rain or snow. After lunch in the little village of Biduedo the weather had deteriorated to blizzard conditions with gale force winds. With the wind hitting us side on it was impossible to walk in a straight line and ponchos became a sail dragging us of the path, when we got the wind front on it drove the rain like needles into our faces. I was silly enough to walk for a distance with no gloves and when my hands were blue with the cold I couldn't get them on properly because the lining stuck to my wet fingers. Thankfully the path was softer because of the thick layer of mud, manure, water and leaves. Arrived at Triacastela by 15:30 and booked into empty albergue. With 115km to go we are on time for Christmas in Santiago.

Camino 2013 - Day 24 - 17 December 2013

This is the day I dreaded. This morning up to a freezing bedroom and no hot water. The girls and I left at. 08:00 because Kristina had another medical appointment for her bites while Lilli and I had breakfast in a local bar. We then walked 10km to Trabadelo for our first coffee. The day started with light rain that continued all day. We donned our ponchos to keep out the rain but of course the sweat inside creates just as much dampness. The first 20km is alongside the old highway but there is almost no traffic, then we started the 16km continues uphill walk to O'Cebreiro which almost killed me. This is the stage of the Camino which is always the toughest for me! After La Faba we walked 5km on dirt track which started on a steep climb on broken rock covered in fallen leaves, this changed to mud and rocks and continued to climb. Just when I thought that it couldn't get worse it did, there was now running water with the rocks and mud and a liberal supply of horse and cow manure, we then arrived at a small village and I thought we had arrived at O'Cebreiro, but it was not and the sign said 2km more. The track continued to climb steeply and my muscles in legs, hips and back protested mightely as the rain increased and fog closed in, and mud, manure and rocks became worse. Eventually the three ladies, Jennifer from Germany had joined us, and a Brazilian man and I dragged ourselves into O'Cebreiro after 36km. We can be thankful that forecast snow didn't come. Thank goodness that the albergue in O'Cebreiro is warm and comfortable.

Camino 2013 - Day 23 - 16 December 2013

Today we walked 32km and on top of yesterday's walk I feel burned out. Tomorrow a hard uphill 30km to O'Cebreiro for which there are conflicting bad weather forecasts. This morning the ladies had breakfast in my bedroom before we headed out to a cracking -8C. We walked the 9km to Ponferrada quickly for a hot coffee in restaurant opposite the large Knights Templar castle, this was followed by 7km of suburban roads and busy highways until our lunch stop at Fuentes Nuevas, where we also met up with Jennifer who we hadn't seen for two weeks . We continued walking along country lanes until Cacabelos where we had a pilgrims wine tasting and beer in the most delightful old world hotel. The final 8km were mostly up and down hills through vineyards until we reached Villafranca and albergue Ave Fenix, which sadly was not the best choice because the hospitalero is a rude sod to anyone who didn't have dinner there. Kristina and I went to the local doctor for her many bug bites which she received during her second day on the Camino.

Camino 2013 - Day 22 - 15 December 2013

A day of mixed blessings. Breakfast was in the kitchen with the hospitalera and as we left she gave us all a hug, kiss on each cheek, wishes for a safe arrival in Santiago and a happy Christmas. The weather was perfect with not a cloud nor snow flake to be seen. As soon as we left Rabanal it was a 300 meter uphill trudge through Foncebadon to the Cruz de Ferro the highest point on the Camino at 1505m. At the cross I left a small stone from home with prayers and had a quiet time before descending to Manjarin where a lone hippie runs a small coffee stop and claims to be the last Knights Templar. After a few kilometers of uphill climb again we started our descend of 900m over 10km on the most awful, steep, stone covered paths that had suffered from some major wash out after heavy rains. Every step had to be watched and on at least 4 occasions I would have twisted an ankle were it not for the walking sticks. Finally we, now 6, arrived at Molinaseca albergue to find it closed. For the night we have accommodation in a hotel at €10 each, and I have a room on my own. I have now covered over 500km. Have you ever wondered what pilgrims eat? Our almost staple diet has become chocolate, nuts, fresh fruit and water or coffee when there is nothing else available. At the end of the day we do have a beer to replace lost fluid :-).

Camino 2013 - Day 21 - 14 December 2013

There are now only 8 pilgrims of whom 5 are new starters. Breakfast was jamon, cheese and tomato and on the road at 08:00 but in a local bar for hot coffee 5 minutes later. This morning there was a perfectly clear sky, not a breath of wind and the cold a -6C was sharp as a knifes edge, going through everything. This is the first day I thought of wearing my buff scarf over my face. Let me tell you about cold: there is cold, very cold, biter cold, penetrating cold so that your fingers are blue inside the gloves, rain cold, frosty cold, windy cold, hail cold, snow cold, extreme cold, cold showers, cold bathrooms, cold albergue, cold cathedrals and museums; so if you don't like the cold don't walk the Camino in winter because I have had them all. Currently the 2 ladies are the only women on the Camino and we 3 are all that remains of the original group. The walk from Astorga through Murias de Rechivaldo and then Santa Catalina de Somoza was a joy in beautiful peaceful bush and heath. Strangely the weather is like spring and by mid morning the layers of clothing came off. Unlike May 2010 when the mountains were covered in snow there is not a flake to be seen. After an orange and water stop in Santa Catalina we walked on to Rabanal to the albergue Nuestra Seniora del Pilar which has a farm house feel about it and the lady who runs the place is very motherly. Tonight we have a home cooked meal for €2. She also washed and dried all our clothing for us for €4. Mass at one of the ancient churches before dinner. Only two Italians and one German pilgrim besides us. I'm writing this message from the kitchen in front of a log fire. Tomorrow the highest point, Cruz de Ferro at 1505 meters and a 30km walk.

Camino 2013 - Day 20 - 13 December 2013

What a day this turned out to be. With no one else in the albergue we left in the dark at 7:30 under a cloudy sky and due to light rain, in mild temperatures. The first 10km we walked pretty much alone through flat farmland and plodded into Villavante after 2 hours for our first coffee. The next stop for an early lunch was historical Hospital del Orbigo. By now the day was warming up and outer layers of clothing were removed. The path at this stage was quite tough going because all the dirt roads were covered in egg to fist size stones and every stepped had to be watched for fear of damaging ankles or feet. In the hills outside Astorga there is a hippy who runs a little self help cafe and you pay by donation. When I told him I'd been there 3 years ago he gave me a hug and bowl of very tasty lentil soup. The final suburban slog into Astorga , Roman Asturias, is all uphill. We are staying in the communal albergue with 4 other pilgrims. This afternoon we visited the Gaudie bishops palace, the cathedral and museum and the chocolate museum because Astorga is the chocolate city of Spain, and yes we also bought some. Covered 32 km today and saw no more then 20 Spaniards in all; where are all the people in this place, they can't all be having siestas. My bite on the left leg seems to be getting worse and could be fleas or bed bugs, the Camino is polluted with them at the moment, we've all been bitten at one point or another. Tomorrow the mountains!

Camino 2013 - Day 19 - 12 December 2013

Today we walked from Leon to Mazarife, 23.5km in pleasant weather conditions although on some puddles and creeks there was about 4cm of ice. The 7km walk out of Leon is depressing through endless urban and industrial suburbs. After La Virgin Del Camino we headed onto country roads and lanes where we walked in total peace with no other pilgrims or traffic. In Oncina we found a new playground and spend 5 minutes on the swings!! :-) One of the locals must have thought we were mad when she opened the window to see what was going on. Arrived at Mazarife at 14:30 and to our annoyance the preferred albergue was closed, probably for siesta, because after we booked into another one the first one had opened its doors. Anyway the girls and I each have separate heated rooms and there is no one else here. My left leg does not seem to be improving from the swelling so tomorrow I'll go on antibiotics. Forecast for tomorrow is rain and we have a 32km walk. I can highly recommend my new beanie (cap) with ear flaps which out the cold and wind.

Camino 2013 - Day 18 - 11 December 2013

Today was a rest day and we moved to hotel Paris for the night. This morning we spend 3 hours going through the magnificent cathedral and museum, buy my grief it was bitterly cold. At lunch time we went our own ways, Lilli to bed, Kristina sight seeing and I bought a warmer hat as we are heading into -10C temps. Also wandered into the local market which was a feast of colour. The remainder of afternoon washing, tending body and short sleep. Meeting with Gabi from 2008 Camino for beer now and dinner with the ladies. Looking forward to good sleep tonight. 25km walk tomorrow to Mazarife.

Camino 2013 - Day 17 - 10 December 2013

In winter time things don't always go to plan. We had wanted to walk 29km to Arcahueja to be close to Leon for a short walk the next day but as fate would have it the albergue which was to be open was closed. We slogged into Leon after 39km of hard walking through flat countryside and many kilometres of industrial and city suburbs. My left lower legs is very sore and swollen, I may have been bitten by something. We stayed in the albergue Santa Maria de Carbajal a convent. Lilli wasn't well after the walk and Kristina and I went out for a cold beer and tapas. Had a reasonable sleep.

Camino 2013 - Day 16 - 9 December 2013

Today there will be even less walkers because the weekend walking Spaniards will be back at work. Morning temp -5C but clear skies and no wind. The day was much like yesterday but much longer covering 31 Km. All are suffering from sore feet. A coffee stop in Moratinos and again in Sahagun. We wanted to see Sahagun but being Monday lunchtime and followed by siesta everything was closed till 16:00. Our final destination is Burgo el Rainero in an old albergue run by an artist. 

Now I will tell you about a day in the life of a winter pilgrim. Out of bed at 07:00 after a night of snoring, farting and door banging in a smelly room. Rush for the toilet before all the paper is gone, then quick face wash with cold water and comb hair. In bedroom start dressing in the dark until the lights come on, put smelly sleeping bag away and pack things in backpack for an early start. No breakfast available so walk for 5 or 10km to first town with bar for coffee and toast. 

Weather can be bitterly cold with heavy frost and fog or raining so put on poncho and trudge out of town, looking for fading yellow arrows to point the way. Every town in Spain has a steep hill so with protesting legs and heavy pack trudge up steep slope and ask yourself why you are doing this. At top of hill take photo of town with freezing fingers in gloves, keep walking and watch as the rising sun starts to burn the frost of vegetation. Not much activity other then one or two other pilgrims and local farm dog who chases you and barks. The hours slip away and your mind mulls over family and friends, the past and future, and the spiritual side of life. A town appears and you search for the local bar to warm up and get another pilgrims stamp in you pilgrims passport; everything is shut!! 

The path wanders through fields and vineyards and you curse the clinging deep red mud which slows you down, along the way you surreptitiously pick a bunch of grapes to quell the hunger, finally by mid afternoon you find a place for lunch, a thick roll with jamon, cheese and tomato. 20 minutes later back on the road and put gortex jacket back on to cut out the icy cold wind. Walking in winter many small villages are ghost towns and pilgrim accommodation, bars and supermarkets are shut. The end is in sight after a hard 30km walk, an albergue but is it open, my feet are killing me? It is, but the rooms are not heated, there are no clothes washing facilities and food has to be bought from the tiny supermarket; tonight it's sardines on bread, some cheese, a packet of chips and beer. As soon as you get to the albergue look for the best bed near a heater, window or power point and unpack smelly sleeping bag, then to the toilet to get the last paper followed by a shower with luke warm water, outside the temp is 3C. 

After dinner wash socks and hope they dry by morning, then write diary and go to bed. Ah, the joy of my own smelly but homely sleeping bag. I put my wallet and passport in the sleeping bag and push them to the bottom with my foot. The lights are turned off and the music of the night commences again; snoring, farting and door banging. It is so good to be back in my bed; only another 489km to go!!! Why would I not want to do a pilgrimage to Santiago?

Camino 2013 - Day 15 - 8 December 2013

Sun 8 Dec 13. A magic day!! The accommodation was very comfortable with single and not bunk beds. We hit the road at 08:30, it was -6C, heavy mist but clear sky and no wind. The country side was white, every blade of grass, twig, leave and branch covered in small wind driven icicles. A photographers dream! Only by midday did the sun burn of the ice and bring some warmth. Our first stop was at midday after walking 17km on a straight country lane in rolling fields although the mist hid this from us. During the morning we only saw two other people, both pilgrims. Finally at 15:00 we arrived at Terradillos de Templarios and decided against trying to walk the other 13km due to failing light. I have stayed in this albergue previously and they put on a good evening meal and breakfast. Now only 2 days out from Leon. The days are getting noticeably shorter and colder. Feet holding up but feeling the pressure of non stop walking.

Camino 2013 - Day 14 - 7 December 2013

Breakfast of yesterday's bread, cheese and ham, then outside to a perfectly clear sky and no wind but heavy frost. My god it was cold, even with good gloves my fingers were sore from the cold. By midday the sky had a winter grey colour but mid afternoon it was perfectly clear and almost warm. First hot coffee in Poblacion albergue where the lady hospitalar gave us a big hug as we left. The next 12 km we walked alongside a small river along totally deserted country lanes until reaching Villalcazar. Here we visited the beautiful Knights Templar church and had coffee in hotel. Final destination after 20km is Carrion de Los Condes where have booked into the convent Espiritu Santo. Tomorrow we are trying for a 37km day!!!

Late update on Pyrenees! One of the pilgrims showed photos of his crossing on 29 Nov. The snow was up to knees and extreme wind. All signs covered in ice with half meter long icicles. To read directions ice had to be chiseled off. Temps minus ten degrees and crossing of 30km took 14 hours. Police send helicopter to check the three pilgrims. This story has been confirmed by other pilgrims who took lower route.

Camino 2013 - Day 13 - 6 December 2013

The day started with an exchange of small gifts between Lilli, Kristina and me for St Nicholas day. The morning was very cold with a biting bitter wind. Immediately on leaving Castrojeriz we hit a big steep climb of 12 degrees continuous over 1km with a downhill gradient of 18 degrees, an awful way to start the day. First and only stop was at Itero de la Vega for coffee. Along the way the police stopped us to check everything OK because the road is so remote. After walking 25km without seeing almost no one and living on chocolate and nuts we arrived in Fromista to find everything locked for a holiday. Dinner was a frozen pizza in the bar. The albergue was closed and was opened for us. Tonight there are 8 pilgrims. Along the way we met an Italian pilgrim whose heel blister was so bad that he had blood coming through his shoe, there are also more crosses along the route then previously.

Camino 2013 - Day 12 - 5 December 2013

On the road early in semi darkness, and although overcast and biting cold the day cleared up by mid morning. The endless Meseta of rolling treeless hills and lonely plains is empty of people and until reaching Hontanas after 11km we were alone. A friendly lady dragged us into the only open bar in town where it was coffee and tostadas (toast and jam) for breakfast. Today we walked fast and covered the 20km by 12:30 to arrive at Castrojeriz. Our route took is through the ruins of St Anton abbey. Now there are just Lilli, Kristina and me. Dinner tonight was in a very good restaurant and consisted of thick bean soup, goulash, dessert, good bottle of wine and coffee, costing $18 each. The albergue is modern and comfortable. Daily washing completed!!.

Camino 2013 - Day 11 - 4 December 2013

Time to say goodbye to Martin who has to return to Stuttgart and a number of other friends. Today I walk with the two Slovenian ladies and Naboz the Spaniard. Getting out of the Burgos suburbs takes a long time and then we are on the lonely, endless Meseta, walking under a cloudless sky and summer like weather. There are few towns here and the first that offered coffee was Tarjados after 10km. Our final destination for the day was Hornillos, an old Middle Ages pilgrim town with 40 inhabitants, the only bar closed and no shop. To get into the albergue we made a phone call and for evening meal there were frozen meals from the bar delivered. Thankfully the fire was lit or we would have frozen. Glad to go to bed at 20:00.

Camino 2013 - Day 10 - 3 December 2013

We departed albergue at 08:00 with a picnic lunch enroute to Burgos. The sky was clear and by midday we were down to shirt sleeves and wearing sun hat. The first section of walk to Atapuerca is through lovely easy walking country but this changed to steep rock covered hills which took all my energy. On top of the range we passed a cross next to the military firing range and then descended into a treeless plain with mining and industry on the outskirts of Burgos. This last 10km is just a hard walk until we crossed the Rio Arianzon and walked in parkland for the remainder until entering Burgos through old city gate. In the evening we all went to pilgrims mass in the cathedral and wandered around the brightly lit Xmas markets.

Camino 2013 - Day 9 - 2 December 2013

Today a lovely walk to Ages. The weather was clear but cold. The country side is pretty with pine and oak Forrest's enhanced by the first layers of snow which became thicker as we went to higher altitude near St Juan de Ortega. Today there were some steep tough sections which were not improved by the glassy slippery snow in places which was treacherous, if not for the walking poles I would have taken a few big tumbles. Stayed the night in a modern comfortable albergue (pilgrims hostel).

Camino 2013 - Day 8 - 1 December 2013

1DEC13

A 24km walk to Villambistia today.   Nothing special, the countryside is rolling hills producing grapes, potatoes and vegetables.   Cloudy skies with heavy black snow clouds but for all that we had good weather although cold.   Feet are tired and sore after 6 days walking covering 200km.   Tonight early to bed because tomorrow isa stinker with three hills through possible snow country at StJuan de Ortega and on to Ages.   There are fewer accommodation options available each day.

Camino 2013 - Day 7 - 30 November 2013

30NOV13

After a good night's sleep departed the albergue at 08:30 under a grey sky and mild temperatures.   2km outside Najera this changed to cold rain.   It was a bleak day.   In Azofra put on the poncho for the rest of the day.   Imagine waling with a 13kg backpack, poncho, clinging mud for 10km, a headwind with driving rain in your face and fingers, cheeks and nose frozen, well that was my day for most of 27km.   To finish it off we had a hail storm outside Granon where we are tonight.   The albergue is in part of the ancient church and for the 8 pilgrims there was a special mass and evening meal provided.   We are now all sitting around an open fire.   It has been a tough day with a beautiful ending.   The feet are tired and sore and there is still hard walking to do.

Camino 2013 - Day 6 - 29 November 2013

29NOV13

Left Logrono with a cold 3C which never warmed up during the day and a grey heavy sky threatening snow, the wind has also returned with a cutting edge.   The countryside although similar to yesterday is bleak and other than the vineyards where I took some bunches of grapes thee was little to get excited about.   We stopped for morning coffee in Navarette and a pasta lunch, the only thing on the menu, in Ventosa.   Arrived at Najera at 16:30.   Had a lovely meal of roast ribs tonight.   Feeling pretty tired after the 32km walk, the cold drains all energy and the feet are also telling me they didn't enjoy today, much of which was walking on broken stones.   Weather change to unsettled conditions coming soon.

Camino 2013 - Day 5 - 28 November 2013

28NOV13

A good 31km walk to Logrono today.   Beautiful clear sky without a cloud, no wind and 3cm of ice on the puddles.   Snow is forecast but not for the next day.   The walk was fast with our first tea and apple shop at Torres del Rio where we had a lovely few minutes sitting in the sun.   Our next break, for lunch, was 13km further in Viano.   By the time we arrived at Logrono albergue the feet were sore and ready for a hot shower.   Tonight there are only 5 of us in the room, the heating broken and we have a couple of blow fan heaters going.   Night temperatures down to -4C.   Tomorrow another big hilly 31km day.   The countryside is loverly here and it is hard to imagine that winter is coming.

Camino 2013 - Day 3 & 4 - 26-27 November 2013

27NOV13

Today I celebrated my birthday, first with messages from home, then a card from Ilka (Camino 2010 friend) and with chocolate from Martin.   Tonight in Los Arcos in the albergue they sang Happy Birthday and then after the pilgrims mass in the church it was dinner out.   The day's walk was demanding but the sky was crystal clear blue and the countryside magnificent, however the cold winds prevail as we come closer to the snow covered mountains.   There was no open bar or place to eat in the 23km today so lunch consisted of an apple and some cold water.   Spain is an interesting country, we see almost no people and although the houses in the villages are all occupied.   Life in the Camino consists of early rise and rush for the bathroom, then getting dressed in the dark, putting the sleeping bag away and preparing the pack for the day.   Yesterday we had 2 showers, 2 wash basins and 2 toilets for 18 people.   The showers are unisex and all you have is a shower curtain and no place to dry yourself or put things, this is a real leveller where no one has privacy.   I hope that the body is adjusting to these new physical demands because tomorrow is our first 30km day to Logrono.

Camino 2013 - Day 2 - 25 November 2013

Day 2 and 22km to Estella, this doesn't seem like much but with a 13kg pack, biting cold winds and steep hills it's a challenge.   On our second day the muscles are sore and the body doesn't know what's hit it.   I'm losing weight and daily tighten the belt more.   Although today wasn't far it seemed much further and made slow progress up and down the hills.   In Spain most towns are situated on hills, a defensive position from the Middle Ages which also makes it hard going for pilgrims.   After 4 hours walking and no open bars, lunch consisted of an apple and small cake each eaten outside in relative shelter.   Arrived at Estella by 15:00 thoroughly burned out and sore.   It's a good life!   The surrounding mountains have reasonable snow coverage on the peaks.   The bread and cakes in Spain are to die for.   Saw a policeman walking around town shooting pigeons in the street with an air rifle.

Camino 2013 - Day 1 - 25 November 2013

After the disaster with QANTAS and having to forego 3 days of walking of the Pyrenees, Martin and I left Pomplona in bitter temperatures with high biting winds.   I wore a thermal shirt, shirt, fleece and gortex jacket, beanie and gloves.   The first 4 hours and 20km was a tough bitter walk up hill and all shops closed until reaching Murzabul for lunch.   We decided to walk an extra 3km to Eunate, Knights Templar chapel but being Monday was closed.   After a 29km walk in tough conditions for the first day arrived at Puenta la Reina.   All up about 10 pilgrims staying here.   Mountains along way covered in snow.